Fall Bounty

Sometimes you just get lucky!

Fall is when the salmon come in. Maybe it's the time when I finally slow down and put the rod out and see what's biting.

An extended crab season was an unexpected bonus this year.

And sometime you have to toss a few back.

SIGHT. SMELL. SOUND.
Salmon have three sense mechanisms they use to find their prey. They are sight, smell and lateral line response (sound). If you are trolling and your lure passes within a few feet of a salmon and he sees it, you will probably catch him. The problem is the ocean and most bodies of water salmon can't see more than a few feet. This gets worse as you go deeper. If you are relying on sight alone you probably won't bring home many salmon.

The second is smell. Salmon have an extremely sharp sense of smell. But that doesn't help unless you get the bail right in front of him.

The third sensing mechanism is the one you want working for you. Down a salmon's side and on his head and back there are tiny hair like projections called cupula. Each of of these has a nerve cell at the end. These cells are used to pick up vibrations in the water. This is the mechanism that you want to take advantage of. If your lure is putting out erratic vibrations twenty or thirty feet from a salmon you can pull him in like a magnet. He will follow the vibration like a radar beam and attack your bait.

Lures like a Crocodile, or the Apex put out an erratic powerful vibration that will get you salmon. A trolled cut plug gets you the same vibrations.

When you put a bait or lure in the water, you should carefully check its action. You want to convey that their buddies are attacking baitfish. Boat speed, depth and current are critical.

Gelcoat Repair

How to Apply Gelcoat and Make a 47 Year Old Boat Look 'New'

I've been thinking about what to do with my worn out decks for years. High wear areas have also worn smooth the thin layer of gelcoat in the smooth areas. Chips and cracks have become home to a tenacious type of mold that only comes off with a wire brush. Wire brushing is effective but doesn't solve the problem, and allows the growth to return after a few short months.

BEFORE and AFTER
   
Left: High traffic areas in the cockpit showing a bit too much 'love'. Right: New gelcoat on port non-skid, old on starboard.

The debate has always been to paint like most folks (and then re-paint every couple years) or try to gelcoat the worn areas. Gelcoat, despite its polyester base and nasty smell seems like the best choice. Gelcoat with its quick dry time and ability to mix small quantities is perfect for me when I only have a couple hours to work. Only time will tell if it's the right choice.

After much research and internal debate the solutions I've chosen is to purchase and apply the gelcoat using two very different techniques; using waxed gelcoat for the non-skid and unwaxed gelcoat for the smooth parts.

AFTER
   
Using a chip brush a light coat gives a finish that doesn't compromise the non-skid and will (hopefully!) last for another 40 years. Bottom photo shows the purple PVA (polyvinyl alcohol) that is used on the unwaxed gelcoat to create the air barrier to speed up drying. It's applied with the Preval sprayer and removed with a wet rag after the gellcoat has dried, about 3-4 hours.

NON-SKID
The waxed gelcoat allows me to brush on two thin layers without having to tape off any areas. A wire brushing using a wire wheel on a drill removes the dirt and oxidation from the surface. An acetone wipe with a clean white cotton t-shirt removes the dust. A second wire brushing between coats ensures good adhesion and provides excellent opacity and thickness without adversely affecting the grip of the non-skid. Clean up with MEK 5 to 10%. Color: Greystone. Quantity: 5qts.

       

DECK
I first removed the propane locker hatch, cleaned it, and took it down to Fiberlay so they could match the gelcoat color. Because the deck is in pretty good shape, I had them only mix one quart or unwaxed. This should allow me to thin the gelcoat (5% best but no more than 10%) with MEK, and apply 2-3 coats. I can also easily feather between different areas I'm working and patch sections if I need to rebed deck fittings.

Prep by sanding with 80-100 grit sandpaper and wiping with acetone.
Option 1) Apply gelcoat in one Preval sprayer. Then coat with polyvinyl alcohol in a separate Preval sprayer.
Option 2) Brush 90° and then come back another 90° with a fully loaded brush.

MIX
4oz gelcoat to .04oz monomer catalyst (14 drops per ounce)
Thin with methylethylketone (MEK) up to 10%
Use Acetone to clean up

FINISH
Take down the orange peel with 240 grit wet sandpaper.
Wet sand with 800 grit
Buff with 3M 05954
Wax with Collinite Heavy Duty Paste Fleetwax

NOTES
Temp 50deg or warmer ... let dry overnight
Temp 80deg ... will dry much faster
Thinning seems to add to dry time, significantly

MORE ON SANDING PREP
The heavier fast-cut grits (40/80/100) are used to feather sand and ground out a routed area prior to filling. Also, they are used for the first sanding of gouges, dock dings, scratches, and blisters. When sanding areas that have been filled with putty I suggest using 40 or 80 grit sandpaper, depending on how large the repair is. Once the fill area is level or contoured to the desired shape, sand with 100 grit paper to remove the course scratches from 40 or 80 grit. You should also feather the surrounding area of the gelcoat repair with 220/330. At this point, the repair is ready to prep and spray/brush with gel coat. When sanding flat areas use a rubber block.

FIBERLAY
http://www.fiberlay.com
6608 S 211th St #105
Kent, WA 98032
(206) 782-0660

MORE INFO
How to apply gelcoat

Be Careful Anchoring in Deer Harbor

Warning to those anchoring in Deer Harbor, Orcas Island

There is an unmarked, submerged, derelict sailboat in 45' of water, 100 ft from the opposite shore of the marina. The coordinates are:
North 48deg 37.136’
West 123deg 00.401’

UPDATE 08/2020: Deer Harbor Marina and residents have now has added 7-8 new bouys in the bay, as seen on Google Maps. Two of them now flank the derelict vessel making it all but impossible to set your anchor in it's hull and rigging.

I found this the hard way...

After fueling up at the Deer Harbor fuel dock we motored over to the West side of the harbor and dropped the anchor in 45’ of water approximately 100’ from shore. We let out approximately 140 feet of chain and set the anchor normally. The anchor, a Lewmar 35# Delta, appeared to set normally with a solid bite.

We have anchored in this harbor many times but not in this exact spot. The bottom is sand and mud throughout the harbor and we have never had any issues of any kind.

The next day we decided to travel to another island. We motored forward using the windless to pull up the anchor chain vertical so that the boats bow was directly over the anchor. We then cleated off the chain and eased the boat forward expecting the anchor to lift out of the mud. The chain did not budge.

We then eased the boat forward a second time giving a little more throttle. Again, the anchor held fast as we heard a pop as the forward bolt snapped on the anchor roller. The chain then pulled the anchor roller horizontally clockwise, so that it rotated almost 45 degrees from its normal position away from the forestay. As the anchor roller rotated, it also tore the starboard navigation light off the toe rail and splintered the teak toe rail. The chain then jumped off the anchor roller and onto the base of the bow pulpit and onto a locking device I use to hold the anchor shank so it doesn’t bounce underway. The bow pulpit then bent with the load of the chain and anchor.

With my anchor roller now unusable we then tried to pull the anchor up from different angles by hand. No luck.

I called the Deer Harbor Marina and asked them if they knew of any problems on my side of the Harbor. They said yes, there is an unmarked sailboat in this area that catches anchors. They told me that someone had posted a warning map with GPS coordinates in their laundry room. I suggested that this should be posted at the fuel dock before folks have moored. They gave names for several divers and I left messages with them all.

I got a call back from a diver in an hour. We agreed on a fee and soon ferried him out to my boat using my dingy. He said he was not aware of any obstruction in this area. He dropped down and within 10 minutes had my anchor free. He said I had lodged the anchor into the side of a fiberglass sailboat. It took a fair amount of effort to dislodge the anchor. He then climbed back in the dingy and I pulled the anchor in by hand. We then motored back to the fuel dock where he unloaded his gear and was paid.

I updated the information in the Deer Harbor laundry room with my new coordinates above. I have also submitted this information to the Waggoner Cruising Guide where they then posted this location and a warning.

The damage

The repair is complete!

New anchor roller, 1/2" stainless plate under the roller and headstay, navigation lights and pulpit. Thanks you Port Townsend Shipwrights Coop for the excellent work.

Water Filtration

It's important to clean your water tanks every year!

The Peregrine has 1 aluminum water tank on port, and 1 rotomolded tank on starboard. Both hold approximately 20 gallons apiece and are located under the settees.

Filtration is done in two stages. The first stage is for both faucets and are filtered by a 5 Micron Pentek C2 Carbon-Impregnated Cellulose Filter Cartridge. American Plumber WGC478, Fits W385-PR.

Second stage is for pure drinking water. This is done at the galley sink with a separate 50 Micron New Wave Enviro 10 Stage Plus Water Filter Replacement. This is an under sink unit, the same we use at home. Water is dispensed separately, right next to the galley faucet. We use this for drinking and cooking. The filters are not cheap, about $50 apiece on sale but you can be guaranteed to remove all the nasties; arsenic, copper, lead and mercury. Removes phosphate and sulphate anions. Removes chlorine, chlorine taste and odor, pesticides, herbicides.

Flush and disinfect the tanks using the procedure below.

• Turn the water pump on and open all taps to drain all of the water out of the storage tanks.
• Measure 1 teaspoon of household bleach per gallon (of the tank capacity). Pour it inside the tank and immediately add fresh water to the tank until it's full.
• Turn on the water pump and let the bleach water run through all taps for two minutes.
• Turn the taps and the water pump off and let the bleach water sit in the tank for 24 hours. When the tank is sterilized, turn the water pump on and drain the water tank by opening all taps.
• Fill the water tank with fresh water and drain all water again. Repeat this procedure until the water no longer contains an odor of bleach.

Happy wife, happy life.

Practical Sailor has a good article about Decontaminating a Tainted Water Tank

Steering Cables, Rudder Post Seal and Emergency Tiller

Steering Cables

General work notes as I prepare for the next round of maintenance

I make it a ritual every spring to crawl, no, stuff, myself into the starboard cockpit locker and inspect and grease the steering cables and the sheaves that lead up to the binnacle. Grease also got applied to the shaft outside the binnacle, and inside by removing the compass.

I also need to replace the sheave pins and align and tightened as needed.

Staying centered. I should be able to adjust the eyebolts on the quadrant on the rudder post to center the wheel. There should be double nuts on the eyebolts to lock them in place on the quadrant. If the steering gets misaligned then I will need to loosen both eyebolts until the control cables are loose enough to remove the compass from the binnacle and move the bicycle chain a couple of teeth on the sprocket which is inside the binnacle on the shaft to the steering wheel. Then readjust the eyebolts and check the rudder and wheel alignment. Don't put the compass back on until you have it the way you like it. Tension on the cables should be snug but not too tight.

One of the most insidious places to look for problems is to loosen the cables at the quadrant eyebolts, then remove the pins holding the sheaves at the bottom of the pedestal (yes, from that cramped position inside the cockpit locker) - it is very likely that the pins have started wearing through. This loosens the cables (a sure sign of wear) and increases the wear rate because there is no longer a full support on the center of the sheave. It probably takes ten years before there is significant wear in light day sailing, but if you carry a chute in heavy weather for one long offshore passage (2000 miles) you could get the same wear in two weeks.

Rudder Post Seal

I made an initial attempt to disassemble the packing gland held together by four bronze bolts but was thwarted in my efforts when I could remove only one of the bolts due to the restricted vertical clearance created by the location of the steering quadrant immediately above the packing gland.

I then enlisted the services of the Boat Yard and working with one of their mechanics, with me lying under the stern seats, we disassembled the steering quadrant, which provided full and easy access the packing gland. From that point it was simply a matter of removing the four bolts, sliding the top ring upward, removing and replacing the old packing in both the top and bottom rings using a pick tool, remembering to cut the packing at a 45deg to get a maximum overlapping seal, and completing the reassembly. The whole job took about an hour and a half excluding the time to obtain the packing material, the exact dimensions of which I regret to say I do not recall. The significant point in the process was the necessity of the removal of the steering quadrant. I don't know if this would be required in all I-36's but if the clearance to remove the bolts isn't there, then it probably probably requires the removal of the pedestal.

Emergency Tiller

Digging deep under the anchor locker a few years back, I discovered a beautify emergency tiller all wrapped in carpet. It was in perfect shape, still varnished like new. All the fittings are stainless steel. I hope I never need to use it but it's nice to know it's there needed.

2019 Haulout - Edmonds

3 days on the hard at Port of Edmonds

The goals for the haul out this year were to apply new bottom paint, inspect the steering, sea cocks and drive shaft.

My surveyor cousin Jeff Kutz came over to check out the Peregrine. He said there is about 1/16in play in the cutless bearing and 1/18in play in the rudder. Yes, these issues are concerns and in the next 2-3 haul outs I will replace both the cutless bearing and steering cables.

I first ground out the 'smile line' where I get some rust wearing between the hull/keel join. This is a section about 2" v 18" that I applied 4 layers of fiberglass. I then faired =Marine Tex over the deeper chipping and applied two coats of bottom paint (WM/Pettit CPP Ablative Antifouling Paint) applied new prop paint (Fisheries/LPS Cold Galvanize). I also touched up the bootstrap (Fisheries/Interlux Brightside), and cleaned the topsides (WM/Starbright Hull Cleaner with oxalic acid and ethylene glycol n-butyl ether) plus a little MEK. I was also able to buff the starboard topside (3M 05954 super duty rubbing compound) but ran out of time to work the port side which I can get to from the dock.

The zincs were fine, which is a surprise when I hear other tenants in Kingston having to replace theirs more frequently. My slip D-36, seems to be less prone to galvanic corrosion for some lucky reason. Apparently the further away you are from the gas dock the better. I added two more zincs for good measure.

Back in the water, I had the pleasure of launching in the middle of the Edmonds Family Day event Sailing over in 7-10 knots of wind I was not able to go faster than 5.1 knots. But on the return to Kingston run, I was able to run at 6.4knots under power and against a slowly flooding tide.

Salmon Fishing in Puget Sound

After spending 20+ years sailing and fishing in Puget Sound I can tell you we caught more fish on our sailboat then we ever did on powerboats. Engine noise scares salmon. If you're not in a crowded area, you're going to be better off under sail.

We have all types here: coho, chinook, sockeye. We typically used two main methods - trolling under sail (or sometimes motor) using a planer/diver with a flasher and spoon, or jigging with a lead lure when there is no wind or we want to sit over a good spot. We never tried a downrigger (yet) as the planer seems to work well down to 75 feet (guess) or more. We can also use a casting lure with success in small bays or at anchor (a great way to reach coho or sea-run cutthroat that you can sometimes see jumping).

Key to success is figuring out when and where the fish are. To increase your odds, read books and study charts. Then, adjust your sails (drop the main, reef the genoa perhaps) to fit your fishing technique (trolling, jigging, casting, etc), or adjust your fishing to match the conditions (jig if there is no wind, etc). Be sure to have a game plan for what to do when one is hooked - we immediately heave to or tack if we are headed towards shore so my wife or a buddy can help land it. Remember you cannot muscle a fish aboard, you must tire it first. Be patient!

Equipment

Typically we used a shorter rod (ugly stick), 30lbs test line to a pink lady, diving planer. Then about 3' of 50lbs test to a green or silver flasher. Then about 4' to a artificial squid or hoochie. We have also tried a spoon in place of the herring, but the herring always wins. Make sure you bring a BIG net. There is nothing more tragic than losing a nice fish because you lost him while awkwardly trying to get him into too small of a net. Unless you're using herring, color is the most important. A colored spoon that works one day may not work the next.

Speed

Speed is the most important. Somewhere about 1.5-3 knots, BUT there are currents, sometimes opposing currents at different depths that effect how fast. If you have a furling jib, you can reduce your speed. Keeping the line away from the rudder and propeller, especially when single handed can also be a trick.

We have caught salmon at speeds as low as .5 kt all the way up to 4.5 kts. The "best speed" seems to be about 2.5, but that depends on if you are running with or agaist the tide. Put your flasher and lure in the water down about 1 to 3 feet. Speed up and slow down the boat until the flasher switches from the "role" to the "spiral". If you find your speed is fairly quick and you have trouble keeping in that 2 knot range you can fish using gear that is meant to be used at quicker velocities. Plugs (which naturally dive), certain spoons, x-raps, hoochies on longer leaders, and even anchovies on teaser heads can be fished faster than 3 knots. I once hooked into lots of coho while trolling a buzz bomb at 6 knots.

Depth

Your depth sounder/fishfinder is the key. Trolling can work with a 4oz weight, but the fish are usually deeper during the day. So to be successful you need to get down deeper. A diving device like Pink Ladies and Dipsy Divers will get the lure down deep to where the fish are.

In some places the salmon (especially Chinook) are typically 100-300' deep, sometimes 8nm from shore (in the straits or off the coast), and require downriggers with 18# cannon balls but in other places the salmon are 20' deep, close to shore, and a simple sliding 4-8oz weight or diver device will do the trick.

Timing

The best time to catch salmon is between dark and dawn. A salmon's eyes don't dilate. So at night they're on the surface and as the sky brightens and the sun rises, they go deeper. Fish the changes of light and also tide changes, following the rips just off the tide line.

Rules and Regulations

• Washington Statewide Fishing Regulations
• Specific Marine Area Definitions, Fish identification Guide

We also crab and shrimp from our sailboat. Always a great time.

Sound proofing the engine compartment

One of my winter projects was to see if I could quiet down the engine noise a bit.

The summer months in Seattle are hot and short of wind. We also are destination-focused and run the engine a lot. And since I was spending so much time in my lazarette tidying up my wiring harness and installing a new fuel tank, it seemed prudent to also see what could be done to reduce as much engine noise as possible.

When I installed the Yanmar 3GM30 in 2001, I added Barrier 104 to the to the engine room ceiling, and forward and aft bulkheads. I had left partial gaps aft and on the sides of the companionway. There were also opportunities to double up areas next to the galley.

I had a decibel meter from a previous project so used it to get a baseline reading and measure the improvements.

Roughly stated, a noise source doubles in volume with every 6 - 8 decibel increase, and is halved when reduced by corresponding decibel amount. Given the gaps I had where sound transmission was occurring, I felt there was a pretty good chance for significant improvements.

Common noise sources and their decibel values are listed below:

• 40 dB : quiet residential neighborhood
• 70 dB : normal speech at 12" distance 90 dB - heavy city traffic
• 95 - 100 dB : diesel engine room, not soundproofed
• 120 dB : jet take-off

In general, sounds above 85 are harmful, depending on how long and how often you are exposed to them and whether you wear hearing protection, such as earplugs or earmuffs.

My initial readings were:

	750rpm	2700rpm
Cockpit	61	70
Galley	66	79
Berth	62	80

I first created a PVC scaffolding to block out the areas where I had nowhere to attach the insulation. I used 3-8ft lengths of 1 inch, many elbows and T connections. The idea was simply to:

• Keep the insulation vertical and not allow it to come in contact with any moving parts,
• Ensure there was still plenty of incoming air to allow the engine to breathe
• Save our ears from premature hearing loss

Hamilton Jet supplied the Barrier 104 insulation material. At 2" thick, it is stiff enough not to fold. There is a lead lining, a thick, dense core and a foil backing sheet

Big snow in Kingston!

Our mild February finally gave way to Old Man Winter. A week after the Polar Vortex hit Chicago and the East Coast, those of us out here in Seattle accumulated the most February snow since 1916. It came come one storm cycle after another. We had a whopping 14in of snow between Feb 3-11. With 3.5 more inches Sunday and another 6.1 inches (and counting) on Monday, Sea-Tac airport recorded 20.2 inches of snow this month to set a new 100 year record.

I was afraid my new-ish dodger and bimini would get stretched out by the big snow. I was unable to get away from work for a week and finally sent a panic email to the marina. The Port of Kingston marina crews were busy but they always make the time to look out for our investments while we're away. I sent our awesome harbormaster Ray an email and he somehow found time to clear my dodger and bimini as he was making the rounds. Thanks, Ray!

Ray was a little concerned that my dingy on the bow was not shedding the snow very well. He was right. The next day we had a break in the weather and I finally got off our hill and caught the Edmonds/Kingston ferry. By the time I got there the waterline at the bow was an inch lower than normal and 6in had piled up.

Solar panels don't do well under snow! Lucky to have a harbormaster who we can call while we're away.

VHF and DSC

Digital Selective Calling (DSC) is for distress alerting. With the press of a button, users can send a pre-configured distress message to emergency personnel and other DSC-equipped boats in range. The digital message is sent over channel 70 and contains pertinent information about the boat, its Maritime Mobile Service Identity (MMSI) number, owner details, and emergency contact information. When a DSC radio is connected to a GPS, the Mayday includes the boat’s location. The transmission takes about one-third of a second and is automatically repeated until a rescue authority answers. Because the signal is digital, it has a better chance than a voice call of getting through in rough conditions.

A DSC transmission includes the priority of the call (distress, urgency, safety, routine), who the call is being sent to (all ships or a specific ship/station), and the transmitting boat’s identity, location, and nature of distress. DSC also allows sailors to use their VHF radios like a cell phone for ship-to-ship and ship-to-shore communications, without interfering with VHF hailing traffic and without the limitations and cost of cell coverage.

My DSC system consists of the Garmin 172C Sounder paired with Standard Horizon Intrepid VHF Radio. The VHF manual (now discontinued) couldn't include all the potential connections options but Standard Horizon was good enough to fill in the blanks.

Follow these steps to make the proper connections

• Standard Horizon Intrepid VHF Radio will need to receive GPS data on the Blue wire. This is an input to the radio. Connect the TX(+), Data Out wire of the Garmin. Usually Blue on Garmin.
• The Green and Brown wires should be attached to TX (-), RX (-) and or ground. Connect this to the black ground wire or (-) wires on the Garmin. Usually Black on Garmin
• The output of DSC data will occur on the Gray wire at 4800 speed. Output leaving the radio. Connect this to the RX(+), Data In Garmin wire. Usually Brown on Garmin

The Garmin GPS needs to be setup for NMEA 0183 (4800 baud rate) in this installation.

The INTREPID+ also displays time, date, Latitude/Longitude, Speed Over Ground (SOG), and Course Over Ground (COG). GPS repeatablility insures the accurate and safe transmission of your location in an emergency or when you are attempting to meet a fellow cruiser.

Obtaining a MMSI Number

Boat US has a simple MMSI request if you use them for your insurance needs. In the event of an emergency, Boat US will pass your information along to the Coast Guard, so there may be a slight delay.

I currently have 2 MMSI numbers:

• My US Boat issued MMSI# is 338087886.
• My FCC issued MMSI# is 368076210.

If traveling to Canada, Mexico, Bahama or other non-U.S. country, you are required to obtain a Ship's Station License from the FCC and they will provide an MMSI number that is valid for international cruising. To obtain a Ship’s Station License from the FCC, please visit fcc.gov/ship-radio-stations or call 877-480-3201

FCC Forms to request a MMSI#.

• Form 159
• Form 605

Testing your DSC

Do not test the red button as this will send out an illegal false alarm and cause an unnecessary rescue response! Instead, you may run a test call to the nationwide Coast Guard MMSI number, 003669999. Enter this number into your radio's calling memory and select the "Test Call" option from the radio's list of individual DSC calls. You can then press the "call" or "enter" key. Your radio will silently hail the Coast Guard with a digital signal on channel 70. If everything is working properly, your radio will almost immediately receive the Coast Guard's acknowledgement of your call, providing assurance that both your radio and the Rescue21 system are operating properly. You must be boating in an area served by Rescue21 to use this test.

Once you have an MMSI number programmed into your VHF, the DSC feature has other uses some boaters find convenient. The most common is to hail your friends without announcing on Channel 16. Instead you essential dial their MMSI number and your call is announced only on their radio, along with a notice of which channel on which you wish to communicate. Any voice exchange that follows will still be transmitted to all radios monitoring the designated channel, but at least you have not announced to all listeners on Channel 16 your intention to have that conversation. Using selective calling is easier on some radios than on others.

Practical Sailor Guide to DSC

Emergencies

If you have a life-threatening emergency and you have a DSC radio aboard, activating the Distress button is where to start. However, as there is no requirement for nearby vessels to have DSC capability, your DSC distress may go unanswered, in which case you will need to broadcast your distress on Channel 16. There is a "procedure" for sending out a distress call, but all you really need to know is to turn your VHF to Channel 16 and to high power, key the mike, and say "Mayday, Mayday, Mayday. This is the Tambourine. Our position is 24°33' north and 74°56' west and we are sinking." Try to speak slowly and clearly, and repeat this information three times. The essential information is Mayday, your position, and your emergency. If you have time, describe your boat and how many are aboard: "We are a 23' Mako, green hull, white decks, with two adults and two children aboard." If someone is injured, mention that.

If you don't get an immediate response keep periodically sending out a Mayday broadcast as long as the radio will function, taking care to give your position with every transmission. If time permits, scan through the other channels and interrupt any radio traffic you hear with your Mayday broadcast. If you don't hear traffic, try transmitting on Coast Guard Channel 22A.

If your emergency isn't immediately life threatening, activating the DSC distress button may not be appropriate. Try raising the Coast Guard and/or other vessels in the vicinity on Channel 16, saying Pan-Pan instead of Mayday. This is the urgency call--Pan-Pan, Pan-Pan, Pan-Pan (pronounced pahn-pahn). Make this call just like a distress call, except state exactly what assistance you want. For example, maybe you have a controllable leak, and you just want help standing by in case it gets worse.

Navigation and safety

Channel 13 is for navigational use between vessels. It is on this channel that large vessels in close proximity announce their intentions to one another. This is also the primary channel used at bridges and locks. Use this channel to announce your arrival to a bridge or lock tender or to communicate with a nearby ship or other large vessel. You do not need to call on Channel 16 first; Channel 13 serves both as a calling and a working channel. Transmission power on this channel is restricted to 1 watt, so be sure to switch your radio to low power.

Channels 6 and 22A are also important to pleasure boaters. Channel 6 is reserved for intership safety use, primarily during search and rescue operations. Channel 22A is reserved for communications with the Coast Guard. By the way, it is illegal to contact the Coast Guard for a radio check. Call another boat instead.

New Fuel Tank

It was probably too much to ask for an aluminum fuel tank to last 30+ years.

Pin holes develop in tanks over time. I had one pin hole leak welded a decade ago and had a new one beginning. It was not going to fix itself, and to respect the environment and avoid any unnecessary discharge I decided that while it could be fixed, it was going to be a losing battle. I stretched the life of the old tank about as far as it could go ... so out it came.

The new tank, the boats third (above) replaced the off-the-shelf unit that held gasoline prior to 2001 back when the boat was powered by an old Palmer engine. So this was the second tank that had failed in 46 years, not too bad.

Since I basically replaced the entire fuel delivery system last year; new fuel lift pump, all the gaskets and hoses, etc., it seemed prudent to complete the task with a new tank. New is good!

I wanted someone local to do the work as there was a bit of discussion and on the custom modifications. I also wanted to make sure the tank fit better in it's cradle. This entailed pulling the old tank, taking it in to discuss the options, then creating a cardboard mockup to ensure the new tank would fit.

I had Hatton Marine Fabrication build a custom tank to United States Coast Guard and Environmental Protection Agency - Compliance Guidelines and my requirements for shape and volume. It was made from 3/16" 5052 aluminum alloy and holds roughly 26-27 gallons (182-188lbs). The exterior dimensions are 10"h x 26"l x 22"w. The port side is cut at an angle to add a bit more capacity.

There was no USCG certification stamp or sticker supplied by Hatton, but the Coast Guard inspector says "tank certifications are not necessary unless the tank is going in a COI (certificate of inspection) vessel, like subchapter T passenger ferry."

I also added an 8 1/4" x 8 1/4" inspection plate to assist in the bi-annual clean out. And while the tank was out I took the opportunity to clean up the wiring by adding wire wraps and suspending the wiring well above the tank.

Nothing is ever 100% done, and I am currently consulting with a surveyor and working out the details on the last few things:

• Vented loop on vent line
• Strapping
• Return line bend too tight
• Slightly uneven base

Luckily the port lazaretto is huge with lots of access!

The old tank was good for almost 30 years!

2019 Maintenance

Previous maintenance records »

Pardon me for the administivia. I like to keep this information at my fingertips as I am constantly referring to it and would hate to ruin a good trip with having to work on the boat in some far off port.

Yanmar 3GM30F - 1747 hours - 01/01/2019

• Jan - New Fuel Tank
• Feb - Engine room insulation
• Apr - Haul out
• May - Bottom paint
• May - Fiberglass keel join
• May - 2 new zincs
• Sep - Another coat of bottom paint
• Sep - Bow pulpit
• Sep - Anchor roller and headstay plate
• Sep - Bow light
• Sep - Backstay (oversized)
• Sep - Gelcoat
• Sep - Lifelines

2018 Maintenance

2020 Maintenance