Saturday, March 14, 2009

Leg Five: TELEGRAPH COVE TO PORT HARDY

Course: TELEGRAPH COVE TO PORT HARDY
Distance: 28.10 nm



Eastern Queen Charlotte Strait:

The region known as Eastern Queen Charlotte Strait, along the mainland offers fine boating and fishing opportunities. It has become a popular recreational area. Waters are protected with hundreds of uninhabited and secluded coves and inlets. Along the way are remote resorts with floats, telephones, power, fuel, restaurants and even pubs. Be prepared, self-sufficient, respect the wildlife and the environment. This is a remote region with little or no outside communication.

Village Island, at the entrance of Knight Inlet is the deserted aboriginal settlement of Mamalilaculla. This is an interesting place to visit and see surviving remains of totem poles and long houses. Please obtain entry permission from the band office in Campbell River.

Knight Inlet is 113 km (70 mi.) and the longest of the fjords along the British Columbia coast. The shores along this 3.2 km (2 mi.) wide inlet are very steep, with mountains reaching up to 2088 metres (6000 ft.). Anchorage is difficult to find in the upper section, but you can easily cruise the first part and go around Gilford Island by way of Tribune Channel.

Once in Retreat Passage, there are a number of islands, islets and coves that have good fishing and anchorage spots. This includes Health Bay, Meade Bay, Waddington Bay, Shoal Harbour, Echo Bay, Laura Cove and Viner Sound just to mention a few. Kingcome Inlet with its very steep shoreline does offer some anchorage as you make your way up to Kingcome Village and Kingcome River.

Greenway Sound, at the end of Carter Passage, has a floating marine resort with some amenities. Sullivan Bay, with lodge, store and post office offers full resort facilities to pleasure boats. Continue cruising along the mainland to Lewis Cove and Blunden Harbour.

Cruising Western Queen Charlotte Strait (from Broughton Strait to Goletas Channel):

Broughton Strait at the south end of Queen Charlotte Strait has mild summer weather and good boating conditions. Goletas Channel, at the northern end is where civilization gets left behind and the true north wilderness begins. Between these two the waterway is busy with pleasure boats, sportfishing and commercial fishing boats. Sea kayaking is popular here and large cruise ships also make their way through these channels.

Double Bay on Hanson Island offers shelter, but during fishing season commercial and fishing boats use the floats inside the bay. On the South side of Cormorant Island is Alert Bay. Alert Bay is rich with First Nation Culture and Heritage. There are museums, art galleries, Totem Poles, Big House, gift shops, restaurants, accommodations, fishing, whale watching, etc. Be sure to visit the U'mista Cultural Centre to view the Potlatch Collection and temporary exhibits on display - call ahead for hours. For more detailed information contact the Alert Bay Info Centre (250) 974-5024.

Protected Telegraph Cove is a picturesque place to visit, connected by board walks, many buildings are on pilings. This is the launching place to Robson Bight and whale watching. The village of Sointula on Malcolm Island is a favorite stopping spot with its colorful painted buildings that include a food store, marine hardware store, and postal service. Stock up on fresh water, gasoline and diesel fuel.

Port McNeill with three public floats is a busy place. Everything boaters need is within walking distance of the boat harbor. This makes it a favorite supply spot with boaters. Cruising north, is anchorage at Beaver Harbor, Cattle Islands, and Patrician Cove. The northernmost small city on Vancouver Island is Port Hardy with public float, a large wharf and easy access to shopping and needed facilities. Nearby Bear Cove is the terminus for the ferry to and from Prince Rupert.

When reaching Port Hardy, it is decision time. The options are, turn around and go back south. Head north and the inside passage, or go around Cape Scott and the west coast of Vancouver Island. If planning to cruise around Cape Scott, be well prepared and plan the trip very carefully. Goletas Channel, offers a few good anchorage sites on the small islands between Queen Charlotte Strait and Queen Charlotte Sound. Before sailing Nahwitti Bar, Bull Harbour on Hope Island offers secure and protected anchorage. Nahwitti Bar can be a dangerous place for small crafts, cross only when the winds and water are calm. Cross at high water slack. When possible follow a local fishing boat. Close all port lights and stow the dinghy on deck, towing it is not advisable. After crossing Nahwitti Bar and before cruising around Cape Scott, take time out to explore the shoreline of Cape Scott Provincial Park.

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