Saturday, March 14, 2009

Leg Eight: KYUQUOT SOUND TO UCLUELET

Course: KYUQUOT SOUND TO UCLUELET
Distance: 97 nm

Stops in:
Kyuquot Sound
Nootka Sound
Estevan Point
Clayoquot Sound
Tofino
Barkley Sound






Nootka Island and Nootka Sound

To explore in and around Nootka Island, enter Esperanza Inlet by way of Gillam Channel, Tahsis Narrows to Tahsis Inlet and Friendly Cove. This is a longer scenic route with excellent anchorage sites. The first protected anchor spot in Esperanza Inlet is Rolling Roadstead. A popular stop over is Queen Cove in Port Eliza. It offers protection and scenery, a great combination. On the south side of the inlet, Garden Point Bight has good anchorage facilities. Logging and other commercial ventures keep the village of Zeballos afloat. The village is at the very end of Zeballos Inlet and has a public wharf with public floats. It also has supplies and communication. The Nootka Mission operates home base from Esperanza, on the north side of Hecate Channel. This centre, offers environmental education and operates as a spiritual retreat. Friendly staff members are always willing to share the history and other interesting facts about this area.

Tahsis with a large logging mill at the head of a deep fjord offers boating supplies and services. Tahsis Inlet is narrow, long and can be choppy. Nootka Sound offers a number of protected and interesting anchorage spots. There is Friendly Cove, which belongs to the Mowachaht Band. Please obtain permission before entering or crossing. Santa Gertrudis Cove offers shelter for small crafts. Nootka is a sport fishing resort. Jewett Cove on Strange Island has anchorage for small boats. Tlupana Inlet, a deep fiord offers protection in Critter Cove, Valdes Bay, and Galiano Bay just to mention a few. At the head of Muchalat Inlet is Gold River, a pulp mill town with facilities and anchorage at the public wharf. Resolution Cove, is the spot where Captain Cook refit his ship, the Resolution, with a new mast.



Estevan Point to Clayoquot Sound

Estevan Point can be rough going, but once around the point, sheltered Hesquiat Harbour, has anchorage. From this point on, the waters are much busier and signs of civilization are everywhere. A very popular spot with everyone, including locals is Hot Springs Cove, an outdoor hot spring. During the summer, Hot Springs Cove is a very busy destination spot and the public float can be crowded, but there are public mooring buoys. Other sheltered anchorage spots in Sydney Inlet, are Hoot-la-Kootla, Baseball Bay, Riley Cove, Young Bay and Bottleneck Cove.

Clayoquot Sound

Many Provincial Parks populate Clayoquot Sound.



At the far north end Hot Springs Cove (above) is a splendid hot spring still enjoyable in its natural state, located in Maquinna Provincial Park in the remote northern end of Clayoquot Sound. The boiling spring water bubbles up from deep in the earth and cascades down a small cliff into a series of natural layered rock pools, cooled by the incoming Pacific Ocean surf, each pool slightly cooler than the one above it. At high tide the surf surges up into the two lower pools creating a unique blend of hot and cool water. This tidal action also flushes the pools twice daily, so they are always noticeably clean. The spring water is very hot (47 degrees Celcius, 117 degrees Fahrenheit), and is clear with just a faint smell and taste of sulphur.

For the few that can stand the intense heat, a natural shower underneath the waterfalls is simply awesome! Let your tensions evaporate with the steam, at any time of the year. Rejuvenate your soul in these wonderfully scenic surroundings. Soaking in the rocky pools with a mountain rising overhead is a magical experience.



This area makes for great cruising with its inlets and passages that make their way by Flores, Vargas and Meares Island (above). Good anchorage sites are found along the inside passage. Shelter Inlet offers protection at Steamer Cove and Bachante Bay. Matilda Inlet on Flores Island is sheltered and has good anchorage. If supplies are needed, Ahousat on the west side of the inlet has fuel, water and a store. The Clark's who own and operate the Ahousat General Store are always willing to talk about the local history, where good cruising and anchorage sites are available.

If the legend of Sasquatch interests you then you should know that locally, there have been sightings and vocalizations from Meares Island, Vargas Island, Flores Island, Catface, Ursus River, Sidney River, Kennedy Lake, Grice Bay, Long Beach, Radar Hill, and Portland Point. There is even one reported sighting from the golf course. The year 2002 was a banner year for Tofino with at least 8 sightings and a similar number of vocalizations reported from a variety of locations in our area. All occurred in late summer and fall, at a time when drought prevented salmon from swimming upstream.



Tofino (above) is a major center on the West Coast of Vancouver Island and is a bustling, busy town, with resorts, gift shops and restaurants. It also serves as a supply centre for Clayoquot Sound. Tofino offers anchorage possibilities including the public wharf. A paved highway connects the town of Tofino to Port Alberni and the rest of Vancouver Island. Pacific Rim National Park starts just south of town and stretches along the coast to Port Renfrew. Long Beach does not have any mooring spots but is a great place to explore on foot.


Barkley Sound

This is the most popular recreation Sound on Vancouver Island. Both Ucluelet and Port Alberni in the Sound offer connections to the Island's main highway system. Lady Rose, provides a ferry service up and down the coast and into Alberni Inlet regularly. The Lady Rose makes stops at the resorts and commercial operations as it travels between Ucluelet, the Broken Group, Bamfield and Port Alberni. Barkley Sound is exciting to explore. Find anchorage and do the looking from a dinghy. Take time to explore the Pinkerton Islands, Stopper Islands, Pipestem Inlet, Effingham Inlet, the Chain Group, the Deer Group and the Broken Group.

Ucluelet Inlet at the northwest entrance to Barkley Sound has a couple of public floats, wharfs and buoys that all offer good anchorage. The village of Ucluelet can be very busy during the summer with pleasure boats and commercial fishing boats. It is a good place to stock up on needed supplies.

Sea kayakers, canoeists and cruising boats use the Broken Group, which is part of the Pacific Rim National Park. The waters are protected and the islands offer historic value and good cruising. Camp only in designated spots, pack out all your garbage, do not remove any artifacts, and wildlife is protected. Effingham Bay, the most popular anchorage has room and offers good anchorage. Other anchorage spots are at Nettle Island, Jarvis Lagoon, Island Harbour, Dempster Island, Turret Island, Clarke Island and Benson Island.



There's a Pt Alberni Yacht Club out station (above) just north and east of the entrance to Banfield that, if there's room and the harbormaster is willing, is a nice stop.

Alberni Inlet, is deep and cuts into Vancouver Island some 64 km (40 mi.). Port Alberni at the head of the inlet offers full services and has marinas for small crafts. The inlet is narrow and steep.



Bamfield Inlet, (above) on the other hand is open and accessible. The village of Bamfield is on both sides of the inlet, and 'main street' is the inlet. When anchored at Bamfield stock up on marine supplies, fresh produce, meats and other items. Also take time to visit the Bamfield Marine Research Station, run by British Columbia and Alberta universities. The West Coast Trail, part of the Pacific Rim National Park, stretches from Bamfield to Port Renfrew. Hikers can either start or end their trek here. Cape Beale at the eastern entrance to Barkley Sound should be sailed in the morning before the westerly winds start.

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