Saturday, March 14, 2009

Leg Ten: VICTORIA TO ANACORTES

Course: VICTORIA TO ANACORTES
Distance: 40 nm





Anacortes (above)and the U.S Customs dock.




Victoria Harbor (above) and the Canadian customs dock.

Leg Nine: UCLUELET TO VICTORIA

Course: UCLUELET TO VICTORIA
Distance: 110 nm

Cape Beale to Victoria:





Once around Cape Beale, head in a more easterly direction making your way past Carmanah Point and the northern entrance of Juan de Fuca Strait. This stretch of water can quickly change, so be prepared. Start the trip from Barkley Sound to Victoria early in the morning, making your way around Carmanah Point before the prevailing winds start. Pachena Bay, Seabird Rocks and Pachena Point do not offer good mooring. Nitinat Lake, is a freshwater lake that goes directly into the ocean and the surging waters make this entrance very dangerous.




Port San Juan (above) offers protection and anchorage possibilities. Thrasher Cove, Snuggery Cove, Port Renfrew and Woods Nose have mooring positions.



The next anchorage site in Juan de Fuca Strait is in Sooke Inlet (above) with both Sooke Harbour and Sooke Basin. Becher Bay can be full with sport fishing boats, but Campbell Cove offers easy access and protection. Make your way around Race Rocks, through Race Passage and into Victoria.

Leg Eight: KYUQUOT SOUND TO UCLUELET

Course: KYUQUOT SOUND TO UCLUELET
Distance: 97 nm

Stops in:
Kyuquot Sound
Nootka Sound
Estevan Point
Clayoquot Sound
Tofino
Barkley Sound






Nootka Island and Nootka Sound

To explore in and around Nootka Island, enter Esperanza Inlet by way of Gillam Channel, Tahsis Narrows to Tahsis Inlet and Friendly Cove. This is a longer scenic route with excellent anchorage sites. The first protected anchor spot in Esperanza Inlet is Rolling Roadstead. A popular stop over is Queen Cove in Port Eliza. It offers protection and scenery, a great combination. On the south side of the inlet, Garden Point Bight has good anchorage facilities. Logging and other commercial ventures keep the village of Zeballos afloat. The village is at the very end of Zeballos Inlet and has a public wharf with public floats. It also has supplies and communication. The Nootka Mission operates home base from Esperanza, on the north side of Hecate Channel. This centre, offers environmental education and operates as a spiritual retreat. Friendly staff members are always willing to share the history and other interesting facts about this area.

Tahsis with a large logging mill at the head of a deep fjord offers boating supplies and services. Tahsis Inlet is narrow, long and can be choppy. Nootka Sound offers a number of protected and interesting anchorage spots. There is Friendly Cove, which belongs to the Mowachaht Band. Please obtain permission before entering or crossing. Santa Gertrudis Cove offers shelter for small crafts. Nootka is a sport fishing resort. Jewett Cove on Strange Island has anchorage for small boats. Tlupana Inlet, a deep fiord offers protection in Critter Cove, Valdes Bay, and Galiano Bay just to mention a few. At the head of Muchalat Inlet is Gold River, a pulp mill town with facilities and anchorage at the public wharf. Resolution Cove, is the spot where Captain Cook refit his ship, the Resolution, with a new mast.



Estevan Point to Clayoquot Sound

Estevan Point can be rough going, but once around the point, sheltered Hesquiat Harbour, has anchorage. From this point on, the waters are much busier and signs of civilization are everywhere. A very popular spot with everyone, including locals is Hot Springs Cove, an outdoor hot spring. During the summer, Hot Springs Cove is a very busy destination spot and the public float can be crowded, but there are public mooring buoys. Other sheltered anchorage spots in Sydney Inlet, are Hoot-la-Kootla, Baseball Bay, Riley Cove, Young Bay and Bottleneck Cove.

Clayoquot Sound

Many Provincial Parks populate Clayoquot Sound.



At the far north end Hot Springs Cove (above) is a splendid hot spring still enjoyable in its natural state, located in Maquinna Provincial Park in the remote northern end of Clayoquot Sound. The boiling spring water bubbles up from deep in the earth and cascades down a small cliff into a series of natural layered rock pools, cooled by the incoming Pacific Ocean surf, each pool slightly cooler than the one above it. At high tide the surf surges up into the two lower pools creating a unique blend of hot and cool water. This tidal action also flushes the pools twice daily, so they are always noticeably clean. The spring water is very hot (47 degrees Celcius, 117 degrees Fahrenheit), and is clear with just a faint smell and taste of sulphur.

For the few that can stand the intense heat, a natural shower underneath the waterfalls is simply awesome! Let your tensions evaporate with the steam, at any time of the year. Rejuvenate your soul in these wonderfully scenic surroundings. Soaking in the rocky pools with a mountain rising overhead is a magical experience.



This area makes for great cruising with its inlets and passages that make their way by Flores, Vargas and Meares Island (above). Good anchorage sites are found along the inside passage. Shelter Inlet offers protection at Steamer Cove and Bachante Bay. Matilda Inlet on Flores Island is sheltered and has good anchorage. If supplies are needed, Ahousat on the west side of the inlet has fuel, water and a store. The Clark's who own and operate the Ahousat General Store are always willing to talk about the local history, where good cruising and anchorage sites are available.

If the legend of Sasquatch interests you then you should know that locally, there have been sightings and vocalizations from Meares Island, Vargas Island, Flores Island, Catface, Ursus River, Sidney River, Kennedy Lake, Grice Bay, Long Beach, Radar Hill, and Portland Point. There is even one reported sighting from the golf course. The year 2002 was a banner year for Tofino with at least 8 sightings and a similar number of vocalizations reported from a variety of locations in our area. All occurred in late summer and fall, at a time when drought prevented salmon from swimming upstream.



Tofino (above) is a major center on the West Coast of Vancouver Island and is a bustling, busy town, with resorts, gift shops and restaurants. It also serves as a supply centre for Clayoquot Sound. Tofino offers anchorage possibilities including the public wharf. A paved highway connects the town of Tofino to Port Alberni and the rest of Vancouver Island. Pacific Rim National Park starts just south of town and stretches along the coast to Port Renfrew. Long Beach does not have any mooring spots but is a great place to explore on foot.


Barkley Sound

This is the most popular recreation Sound on Vancouver Island. Both Ucluelet and Port Alberni in the Sound offer connections to the Island's main highway system. Lady Rose, provides a ferry service up and down the coast and into Alberni Inlet regularly. The Lady Rose makes stops at the resorts and commercial operations as it travels between Ucluelet, the Broken Group, Bamfield and Port Alberni. Barkley Sound is exciting to explore. Find anchorage and do the looking from a dinghy. Take time to explore the Pinkerton Islands, Stopper Islands, Pipestem Inlet, Effingham Inlet, the Chain Group, the Deer Group and the Broken Group.

Ucluelet Inlet at the northwest entrance to Barkley Sound has a couple of public floats, wharfs and buoys that all offer good anchorage. The village of Ucluelet can be very busy during the summer with pleasure boats and commercial fishing boats. It is a good place to stock up on needed supplies.

Sea kayakers, canoeists and cruising boats use the Broken Group, which is part of the Pacific Rim National Park. The waters are protected and the islands offer historic value and good cruising. Camp only in designated spots, pack out all your garbage, do not remove any artifacts, and wildlife is protected. Effingham Bay, the most popular anchorage has room and offers good anchorage. Other anchorage spots are at Nettle Island, Jarvis Lagoon, Island Harbour, Dempster Island, Turret Island, Clarke Island and Benson Island.



There's a Pt Alberni Yacht Club out station (above) just north and east of the entrance to Banfield that, if there's room and the harbormaster is willing, is a nice stop.

Alberni Inlet, is deep and cuts into Vancouver Island some 64 km (40 mi.). Port Alberni at the head of the inlet offers full services and has marinas for small crafts. The inlet is narrow and steep.



Bamfield Inlet, (above) on the other hand is open and accessible. The village of Bamfield is on both sides of the inlet, and 'main street' is the inlet. When anchored at Bamfield stock up on marine supplies, fresh produce, meats and other items. Also take time to visit the Bamfield Marine Research Station, run by British Columbia and Alberta universities. The West Coast Trail, part of the Pacific Rim National Park, stretches from Bamfield to Port Renfrew. Hikers can either start or end their trek here. Cape Beale at the eastern entrance to Barkley Sound should be sailed in the morning before the westerly winds start.

Leg Seven: WINTER HARBOUR TO KYUQUOT SOUND

Van Isle 360
Course: WINTER HARBOUR TO KYUQUOT SOUND
Distance: 60 nm
Stops at:

Winter Harbor
Quatsino Sound
Kyuquot/Walters Cove for food and fuel
Zeballos for food and fuel
Brooks Penninsula
Kyuquot Sound


Quatsino Sound

Quatsino Sound is the first of the major sounds on the West Coast. It offers protected anchorage, access to a road system and supply centres.

Quatsino Sound is a complex of coastal inlets, bays and islands on northwestern Vancouver Island in the Canadian province of British Columbia. It is the northernmost of the five sounds that pierce the west coast of Vancouver Island, the others being Kyuquot Sound, Nootka Sound, Clayoquot Sound, and Barclay Sound.

Quatsino Sound extends east from the Pacific Ocean. Near its entrance, on the north side, is Forward Inlet, which branches into several smaller inlets, including the Winter Harbour and village of Winter Harbour, British Columbia. Koskimo Bay and Koprino Harbour are located farther east into Quatsino Sound. Drake Island, which is named after Justice Montague William Tyrwhitt Drake, (Mayor of Victoria 1876-1877 lies near the eastern end of Quatsino Sound, and the long Neroutsos Inlet extends southeast from Drake Island. The town of Port Alice lies near the end of Neroutsos Inlet. East of Drake Island, Quatsino Narrows connects the eastern end of Quatsino Sound to Holberg Inlet and the smaller Rupert Inlet. Quatsino Narrows is a tidal rapids (which are also known in British Columbia as skookumchucks), with currents reaching 9 kn at flood tide.



Winter Harbour (above) is a welcome spot with two pay phones and a well stocked store. Including frozen and canned goods, bakery items, fresh produce, a liquor outlet, hardware and fishing supplies. Inner Quatsino Sound, leads to places like Holberg, Coal Harbour and Port Alice. All three places have road links to Highway 19 (Island Highway). Within the Sound are many good anchorage sites and it presents interesting boating as you make your way up and down the four different arms of this waterway. The outer section of Quatsino Sound offers places with anchorage and protection. They include Grant Bay, Nordstrom Cove, Mabbott Island, Harvey Cove, and Gooding Cove.



Brooks Bay, Brooks Peninsula and Checleset Bay:

Crossing Brooks Bay and getting around Brooks Peninsula can be quite a challenge. Within Brooks Bay are Klaskino Inlet and Klaskish Narrows, both are narrow and deep with no known anchorage sites. Klaskino Anchorage on Anchorage Island is sheltered with public mooring buoys and McDougal Island has Klaskish Anchorage. At the head of Klaskish, is the gorge entrance to Klaskish Basin, a very serene, unusual spot with public mooring buoys. This is a pleasant place to rest, to explore and to see wildlife. Jutting out from Vancouver Island is Brooks Peninsula, a forbidding and battered stretch of land that separates the cold northern water from the warmer southern waters.

Winds and water from the north and south seems to meet at Cape Cook and Solander Island. It can be a trying place for cruisers. Clerke Point the south end of Brooks Peninsula is where the waters and weather start improving. When cruising Checleset Bay the difference is noticeable. Make your way into Nasparti Inlet and calmer waters. Columbia Cove and Baidarka Cove both offer anchorage. To sail from Nasparti Inlet to Ououkinsh Inlet, you must get by rocks, reefs and islets, so plan your route carefully.



Continue south by either going out into ocean water or make your way through the Bunsby Islands (above) by way of Gay Passage. From this point, stay close to the coastline making your way to Walters Cove and Kyoquot Sound. The entrance to Walters Cove is tricky and following a local boat into the cove is best. This little settlement has a store and restaurant. Boaters can stock up on water, fuel and groceries. Anchor at the public wharf.





Kyoquot Sound:

In and around Kyoquot Sound (above)are many interested places where boats can anchor. The best and safest way into the Sound is by way of Kyoquot Channel, not Crowther Channel. An excellent and favourite anchorage spot with sea kayakers, sports fishing boats and cruise boats is Kyoquot Bay on Union Island. Other good places for anchorage within the Sound are at Surprise Island, Hankin Cove, Hair Harbour, Rugged Point and Dixie Cove. On leaving Kyoquot Sound, take Clear Passage to Tatchur Point and beyond.

Leg Six: PORT HARDY TO WINTER HARBOUR

Course: PORT HARDY TO WINTER HARBOUR
Distance: 69.40 nm
Stops at:

* Bull Harbor to time the Nahwitti bar crossing
* Sea Otter Cove
* Winter Harbour for food and fuel



This part of Vancouver Island is remote, rugged, beautiful and mostly uninhabited. Cruising here is an experience you will never forget. Heading south, there is anchorage at Hansen Bay. Explore this historic site. Sea Otter Cove, 11 km. (7 mi.) south of Cape Scott, although undeveloped, offers public buoys for small to medium sized boats. In the summer during good weather, San Josef Bay has three anchorage sites. They are Hanna Point Bight, San Josef Inner Bay North and South Sides.

Leg Five: TELEGRAPH COVE TO PORT HARDY

Course: TELEGRAPH COVE TO PORT HARDY
Distance: 28.10 nm



Eastern Queen Charlotte Strait:

The region known as Eastern Queen Charlotte Strait, along the mainland offers fine boating and fishing opportunities. It has become a popular recreational area. Waters are protected with hundreds of uninhabited and secluded coves and inlets. Along the way are remote resorts with floats, telephones, power, fuel, restaurants and even pubs. Be prepared, self-sufficient, respect the wildlife and the environment. This is a remote region with little or no outside communication.

Village Island, at the entrance of Knight Inlet is the deserted aboriginal settlement of Mamalilaculla. This is an interesting place to visit and see surviving remains of totem poles and long houses. Please obtain entry permission from the band office in Campbell River.

Knight Inlet is 113 km (70 mi.) and the longest of the fjords along the British Columbia coast. The shores along this 3.2 km (2 mi.) wide inlet are very steep, with mountains reaching up to 2088 metres (6000 ft.). Anchorage is difficult to find in the upper section, but you can easily cruise the first part and go around Gilford Island by way of Tribune Channel.

Once in Retreat Passage, there are a number of islands, islets and coves that have good fishing and anchorage spots. This includes Health Bay, Meade Bay, Waddington Bay, Shoal Harbour, Echo Bay, Laura Cove and Viner Sound just to mention a few. Kingcome Inlet with its very steep shoreline does offer some anchorage as you make your way up to Kingcome Village and Kingcome River.

Greenway Sound, at the end of Carter Passage, has a floating marine resort with some amenities. Sullivan Bay, with lodge, store and post office offers full resort facilities to pleasure boats. Continue cruising along the mainland to Lewis Cove and Blunden Harbour.

Cruising Western Queen Charlotte Strait (from Broughton Strait to Goletas Channel):

Broughton Strait at the south end of Queen Charlotte Strait has mild summer weather and good boating conditions. Goletas Channel, at the northern end is where civilization gets left behind and the true north wilderness begins. Between these two the waterway is busy with pleasure boats, sportfishing and commercial fishing boats. Sea kayaking is popular here and large cruise ships also make their way through these channels.

Double Bay on Hanson Island offers shelter, but during fishing season commercial and fishing boats use the floats inside the bay. On the South side of Cormorant Island is Alert Bay. Alert Bay is rich with First Nation Culture and Heritage. There are museums, art galleries, Totem Poles, Big House, gift shops, restaurants, accommodations, fishing, whale watching, etc. Be sure to visit the U'mista Cultural Centre to view the Potlatch Collection and temporary exhibits on display - call ahead for hours. For more detailed information contact the Alert Bay Info Centre (250) 974-5024.

Protected Telegraph Cove is a picturesque place to visit, connected by board walks, many buildings are on pilings. This is the launching place to Robson Bight and whale watching. The village of Sointula on Malcolm Island is a favorite stopping spot with its colorful painted buildings that include a food store, marine hardware store, and postal service. Stock up on fresh water, gasoline and diesel fuel.

Port McNeill with three public floats is a busy place. Everything boaters need is within walking distance of the boat harbor. This makes it a favorite supply spot with boaters. Cruising north, is anchorage at Beaver Harbor, Cattle Islands, and Patrician Cove. The northernmost small city on Vancouver Island is Port Hardy with public float, a large wharf and easy access to shopping and needed facilities. Nearby Bear Cove is the terminus for the ferry to and from Prince Rupert.

When reaching Port Hardy, it is decision time. The options are, turn around and go back south. Head north and the inside passage, or go around Cape Scott and the west coast of Vancouver Island. If planning to cruise around Cape Scott, be well prepared and plan the trip very carefully. Goletas Channel, offers a few good anchorage sites on the small islands between Queen Charlotte Strait and Queen Charlotte Sound. Before sailing Nahwitti Bar, Bull Harbour on Hope Island offers secure and protected anchorage. Nahwitti Bar can be a dangerous place for small crafts, cross only when the winds and water are calm. Cross at high water slack. When possible follow a local fishing boat. Close all port lights and stow the dinghy on deck, towing it is not advisable. After crossing Nahwitti Bar and before cruising around Cape Scott, take time out to explore the shoreline of Cape Scott Provincial Park.

Leg Four: CAMPBELL RIVER TO TELEGRAPH COVE

Course: CAMPBELL RIVER TO TELEGRAPH COVE
Distance: 64.8 nm
Stops at: Robson Bight (the famous killer whale rubbing beach)

Johnstone Strait:
This channel of 87 km (54 mi.) stretches from Chatham Point to Hanson Island, with Vancouver Island on the south and the rugged mainland coast on the north. This section can report strong winds and rough seas, but has breath taking scenery. Travel Johnstone Strait in early morning to avoid the strong winds of the afternoon. Chatham Point is an excellent place to check for choppy waters, tides and weather reports before entering Johnstone Strait. There are a few good anchorage sites on both sides of the strait, such as Turn Bay, Walkem Islands, East Bear Bight, Humpback Bay, No Name Cove and Kelsey Bay. A very popular stop for pleasure and fishing boats is Port Neville, which can be extremely busy during the summer months. Port Harvey is large and offers good anchorage. Along the coast of Vancouver Island is Robson Bight Ecological Reserve protecting orcas and their habitat. Do not chase or bother these beautiful mammals, but watch them from a distance.

Leg Three: COMOX TO CAMPBELL RIVER

Course: COMOX TO CAMPBELL RIVER
Distance: 27.14 nm

Cruising Northern Strait of Georgia (Nanaimo to Discovery Passage):

This section offers boaters a couple of different options and routes. One option is to stay close to Vancouver Island and explore the many coastal coves, the islands of Denman and Hornby, Nanoose Bay and Tribune Bay. Continue northward to Baynes Sound, Comox Harbour, Campbell River and the entrance to Discovery Passage. This is a very scenic route, but it offers few good anchorages. Another route to take is by Lasqueti Island. This is a fun place to explore with many small coves that feature good anchorage. The other option is to cross the Strait to Thormanby Islands and up Malaspina Strait to explore east Texada Island and the mainland coast. If planning to cross the Strait of Georgia, stay clear of the military test area.

If boating and staying close to Vancouver Island, you will find good anchorage at Nanoose Bay and Schooner Cove. The marina at French Creek open year round is the only place to anchor if visiting Parksville. Hornby Island has anchorages at Tribune Bay and Shingle Spit. Denman Island features a government dock and float. Comox Harbour is a busy harbour and city. It has a couple of marinas and pleasure boats use the Comox Harbour Authority floats.

Cruising Discovery Passage and Quadra Island:

Discovery Passage is the main waterway that links the Strait of Georgia with Johnstone Strait. Commercial traffic, recreational boats, and sport-fishermen all use this long, narrow stretch of water between Vancouver Island and the Discovery Islands (Quadra, Sonora, and East Thurlow). Northward from Discovery Passage and Desolation Sound the shoreline and topography are rugged and steep. This is the start of the wilderness and an area that is less travelled by pleasure crafts. Careful planning and timing are needed to make this challenging excursion safe and fun. Half way through Discover Passage is Seymour Narrows, which should be navigated near slack water. Duncan and Menzies Bays, on the south, and Plumper Bay on the north side offer anchorage when waiting for slack water.


Campbell River (above), is at the south entrance of Discover Passage, and is the supply centre for this region of Vancouver Island and the islands to the north. The town and district are fast becoming a tourist mecca with resorts, charters, guiding services, craft shops featuring native artifacts and northwest art, restaurants and accommodations.

Quadra IslandPicnic on Quadra Island


Quadra Island (Quathiaski Cove above), on the east side of Discovery Passage has many anchorage sites that offer protection. They include Brown Bay, Kanish Bay, Small Inlet, Granite Bay and just off Quadra is Chained Islands with two good anchorage spots. South of Chatham Point, is Otter Cove, a good spot to hold out if Johnstone Strait is rough.

Leg Two: SILVA BAY TO COMOX

Course: SILVA BAY TO COMOX
Distance: 28.55 nm (1-2 days)
Possible stops at: Lasquitti Isl,

Lasquitti has always escaped me and I plan to stop this time thru.

The winds can be severe enough to seek out a seldom used anchorage at 49o 30.141’ N, 124o15.681’ W called Tucker Bay. You can get out of the bad weather by ducking into Bull Passage between Lasquitti and Jedediah Islands. Up past Boho Island you can turn Northwesterly below Jervis Island to pick a spot with enough depth and swinging room beyond Potter Point. Beware of Avery Reef as you enter, prominently displayed on Canadian chart #3512. There are a few oysters in the area but consider passing them up for easier picking (cleaner water) further up North. This area is quite nice for exploring by dinghy and checking out the wildlife. Boat Bay on the Northern end of Jedediah can get too crowded so you'll want to get there early.

Leg One: ANACORTES TO SILVA BAY/NANIAMO

Course: ANACORTES TO SILVA BAY/NANIAMO
Distance: 75 NM (1-2 days)
Stops at: Customs

This is a long haul. As in all the legs the weather will play a large part of route planning as will tides and crews comfort. Alternative stops are possible at Sucia Isl, Matia Isl, Active Pass, Gabriola Pass or Naniamo.

2009 Vancouver Island Circumnavigation

Peregrine: 2009 Vancouver Island Circumnavigation

This year I plan to sail the 580 nm. counter-clockwise circumnavigation of Vancouver Island, B.C. Canada. I've broken the legs down into 10 sections and am looking for like minded crew to experience the wild and rugged coastline of the largest island off the west coast of America.


Let me know if you are interested and we'll work together to make it happen.




  • One: ANACORTES TO SILVA BAY

  • Two: SILVA BAY TO COMOX

  • Three: COMOX TO CAMPBELL RIVER

  • Four: CAMPBELL RIVER TO TELEGRAPH COVE

  • Five: TELEGRAPH COVE TO PORT HARDY

  • Six: PORT HARDY TO WINTER HARBOUR

  • Seven: WINTER HARBOUR TO KYUQUOT SOUND

  • Eight: KYUQUOT SOUND TO UCLUELET

  • Nine: UCLUELET TO VICTORIA

  • Ten: VICTORIA TO ANACORTES