Water Filtration

It's important to clean your water tanks every year!

The Peregrine has 1 aluminum water tank on port, and 1 rotomolded tank on starboard. Both hold approximately 20 gallons apiece and are located under the settees.

Filtration is done in two stages. The first stage is for both faucets and are filtered by a 5 Micron Pentek C2 Carbon-Impregnated Cellulose Filter Cartridge. American Plumber WGC478, Fits W385-PR.

Second stage is for pure drinking water. This is done at the galley sink with a separate 50 Micron New Wave Enviro 10 Stage Plus Water Filter Replacement. This is an under sink unit, the same we use at home. Water is dispensed separately, right next to the galley faucet. We use this for drinking and cooking. The filters are not cheap, about $50 apiece on sale but you can be guaranteed to remove all the nasties; arsenic, copper, lead and mercury. Removes phosphate and sulphate anions. Removes chlorine, chlorine taste and odor, pesticides, herbicides.

Flush and disinfect the tanks using the procedure below.

• Turn the water pump on and open all taps to drain all of the water out of the storage tanks.
• Measure 1 teaspoon of household bleach per gallon (of the tank capacity). Pour it inside the tank and immediately add fresh water to the tank until it's full.
• Turn on the water pump and let the bleach water run through all taps for two minutes.
• Turn the taps and the water pump off and let the bleach water sit in the tank for 24 hours. When the tank is sterilized, turn the water pump on and drain the water tank by opening all taps.
• Fill the water tank with fresh water and drain all water again. Repeat this procedure until the water no longer contains an odor of bleach.

Too much bleach?
If your water still has the scent or taste of bleach, use Vitimin C or ascorbic acid to neutralize the bleach. It's a safe and effective method for removing chlorine and chloramine, commonly used in fish tanks and other water systems. It's a newer chemical method that doesn't significantly lower dissolved oxygen or harm aquatic life.

How Ascorbic Acid Neutralizes Bleach:

• Ascorbic acid, in its various forms (ascorbic acid and sodium ascorbate), reacts with the bleach (chlorine) to break down the compound.
• The reaction produces water and chlorine, which are then considered to be neutralized.
• Ascorbic acid is a natural option and can be added to water to neutralize bleach quickly.

Important Considerations:

• Ascorbic acid is mildly acidic and can lower the pH of treated water in large doses.
• Sodium ascorbate is neutral and doesn't affect the pH.
• While ascorbic acid is generally safe, it's important to note that the reaction can also produce chlorine gas in some cases.

There is a standard sanitizing procedure for recreational vehicles (ANSI A119.2 section 10.8) that works just as well for boats. We’ve added a few details, but the bones of it come straight from the code and have been reviewed and accepted by the U.S. Public Health Service.

• Turn off the hot water heater until finished.
• Remove any carbon canisters or micron rated filters. Remove any faucet aerator screens. Wire mesh pump protection strainers should stay in place. The plumbing will very likely slough off a layer of bacteria during later flushing steps.
• Clean and remove the vent screen and flush the vent hose.
• Use either following methods to determine the amount of common household bleach needed to sanitize the tank.
• Multiply gallons of tank capacity by 0.13; the result is the ounces of bleach needed to sanitize the tank. This is 1/8 cup of plain bleach (no fragrance) per 10 gallons.
• Multiply liters of tank capacity by 1.0; the result is the milliliters of bleach needed to sanitize the tank.
• Mix the proper amount of bleach within a 1-gallon container of water. This will provide better mixing and reduce spot corrosion of aluminum tanks.
• Pour the solution (water/bleach) into the tank and fill the tank with potable water.
• If possible, allow some solution to escape though the vent. (If the vent is exterior, prevent any spillage into local waters.) This will sanitize the vent line.
• Open all faucets (hot and cold) allowing the water to run until all air is purged and the distinct odor of chlorine is detected. Leave the pressure pump on.
• The standard solution must have four hours of contact time to disinfect completely. Doubling the solution concentration reduces the contact time to one hour.
When the contact time is completed, drain the tank. Refill with potable water and purge the plumbing of all sanitizing solution.
• Repeat until bleach is no longer detectable.
• If the smell of bleach persists after two refill and drain cycles, add a teaspoon of hydrogen peroxide per 20 gallons and mix. The peroxide will oxidize the hypochlorite to chloride (salt) and oxygen, neutralizing the bleach. Any excess peroxide will be harmless to drink and will have no taste. Peroxides are common ingredients in commercially available water freshening preparations like those we tested. Don’t use vinegar, which can ferment, undoing all of your hard work.
• Replace all filters and the vent screen.
• Note for aluminum tanks: Some sailors are afraid of using bleach in aluminum tanks for fear of rapid corrosion. This shouldn’t be a concern for infrequent cleaning when the recommended dosage and time is observed. As an alternative, we found PuriClean to be an effective sanitizer, and it was non-corrosive toward aluminum.

Happy wife, happy life.

Practical Sailor has a good article about Decontaminating a Tainted Water Tank

Steering Cables, Rudder Post Seal and Emergency Tiller

Steering Cables

General work notes as I prepare for the next round of maintenance

I make it a ritual every spring to crawl, no, stuff, myself into the starboard cockpit locker and inspect and grease the steering cables and the sheaves that lead up to the binnacle. Grease also got applied to the shaft outside the binnacle, and inside by removing the compass.

I also need to replace the sheave pins and align and tightened as needed.

Staying centered. I should be able to adjust the eyebolts on the quadrant on the rudder post to center the wheel. There should be double nuts on the eyebolts to lock them in place on the quadrant. If the steering gets misaligned then I will need to loosen both eyebolts until the control cables are loose enough to remove the compass from the binnacle and move the bicycle chain a couple of teeth on the sprocket which is inside the binnacle on the shaft to the steering wheel. Then readjust the eyebolts and check the rudder and wheel alignment. Don't put the compass back on until you have it the way you like it. Tension on the cables should be snug but not too tight.

One of the most insidious places to look for problems is to loosen the cables at the quadrant eyebolts, then remove the pins holding the sheaves at the bottom of the pedestal (yes, from that cramped position inside the cockpit locker) - it is very likely that the pins have started wearing through. This loosens the cables (a sure sign of wear) and increases the wear rate because there is no longer a full support on the center of the sheave. It probably takes ten years before there is significant wear in light day sailing, but if you carry a chute in heavy weather for one long offshore passage (2000 miles) you could get the same wear in two weeks.

Rudder Post Seal

I made an initial attempt to disassemble the packing gland held together by four bronze bolts but was thwarted in my efforts when I could remove only one of the bolts due to the restricted vertical clearance created by the location of the steering quadrant immediately above the packing gland.

I then enlisted the services of the Boat Yard and working with one of their mechanics, with me lying under the stern seats, we disassembled the steering quadrant, which provided full and easy access the packing gland. From that point it was simply a matter of removing the four bolts, sliding the top ring upward, removing and replacing the old packing in both the top and bottom rings using a pick tool, remembering to cut the packing at a 45deg to get a maximum overlapping seal, and completing the reassembly. The whole job took about an hour and a half excluding the time to obtain the packing material, the exact dimensions of which I regret to say I do not recall. The significant point in the process was the necessity of the removal of the steering quadrant. I don't know if this would be required in all I-36's but if the clearance to remove the bolts isn't there, then it probably probably requires the removal of the pedestal.

Emergency Tiller

Digging deep under the anchor locker a few years back, I discovered a beautify emergency tiller all wrapped in carpet. It was in perfect shape, still varnished like new. All the fittings are stainless steel. I hope I never need to use it but it's nice to know it's there needed.

2019 Haulout - Edmonds

3 days on the hard at Port of Edmonds

The goals for the haul out this year were to apply new bottom paint, inspect the steering, sea cocks and drive shaft.

My surveyor cousin Jeff Kutz came over to check out the Peregrine. He said there is about 1/16in play in the cutless bearing and 1/18in play in the rudder. Yes, these issues are concerns and in the next 2-3 haul outs I will replace both the cutless bearing and steering cables.

I first ground out the 'smile line' where I get some rust wearing between the hull/keel join. This is a section about 2" v 18" that I applied 4 layers of fiberglass. I then faired =Marine Tex over the deeper chipping and applied two coats of bottom paint (WM/Pettit CPP Ablative Antifouling Paint) applied new prop paint (Fisheries/LPS Cold Galvanize). I also touched up the bootstrap (Fisheries/Interlux Brightside), and cleaned the topsides (WM/Starbright Hull Cleaner with oxalic acid and ethylene glycol n-butyl ether) plus a little MEK. I was also able to buff the starboard topside (3M 05954 super duty rubbing compound) but ran out of time to work the port side which I can get to from the dock.

The zincs were fine, which is a surprise when I hear other tenants in Kingston having to replace theirs more frequently. My slip D-36, seems to be less prone to galvanic corrosion for some lucky reason. Apparently the further away you are from the gas dock the better. I added two more zincs for good measure.

Back in the water, I had the pleasure of launching in the middle of the Edmonds Family Day event Sailing over in 7-10 knots of wind I was not able to go faster than 5.1 knots. But on the return to Kingston run, I was able to run at 6.4knots under power and against a slowly flooding tide.

Salmon Fishing in Puget Sound

After spending 20+ years sailing and fishing in Puget Sound I can tell you we caught more fish on our sailboat then we ever did on powerboats. Engine noise scares salmon. If you're not in a crowded area, you're going to be better off under sail.

We have all types here: coho, chinook, sockeye. We typically used two main methods - trolling under sail (or sometimes motor) using a planer/diver with a flasher and spoon, or jigging with a lead lure when there is no wind or we want to sit over a good spot. We never tried a downrigger (yet) as the planer seems to work well down to 75 feet (guess) or more. We can also use a casting lure with success in small bays or at anchor (a great way to reach coho or sea-run cutthroat that you can sometimes see jumping).

Key to success is figuring out when and where the fish are. To increase your odds, read books and study charts. Then, adjust your sails (drop the main, reef the genoa perhaps) to fit your fishing technique (trolling, jigging, casting, etc), or adjust your fishing to match the conditions (jig if there is no wind, etc). Be sure to have a game plan for what to do when one is hooked - we immediately heave to or tack if we are headed towards shore so my wife or a buddy can help land it. Remember you cannot muscle a fish aboard, you must tire it first. Be patient!

Equipment

Typically we used a shorter rod (ugly stick), 30lbs test line to a pink lady, diving planer. Then about 3' of 50lbs test to a green or silver flasher. Then about 4' to a artificial squid or hoochie. We have also tried a spoon in place of the herring, but the herring always wins. Make sure you bring a BIG net. There is nothing more tragic than losing a nice fish because you lost him while awkwardly trying to get him into too small of a net. Unless you're using herring, color is the most important. A colored spoon that works one day may not work the next.

Speed

Speed is the most important. Somewhere about 1.5-3 knots, BUT there are currents, sometimes opposing currents at different depths that effect how fast. If you have a furling jib, you can reduce your speed. Keeping the line away from the rudder and propeller, especially when single handed can also be a trick.

We have caught salmon at speeds as low as .5 kt all the way up to 4.5 kts. The "best speed" seems to be about 2.5, but that depends on if you are running with or agaist the tide. Put your flasher and lure in the water down about 1 to 3 feet. Speed up and slow down the boat until the flasher switches from the "role" to the "spiral". If you find your speed is fairly quick and you have trouble keeping in that 2 knot range you can fish using gear that is meant to be used at quicker velocities. Plugs (which naturally dive), certain spoons, x-raps, hoochies on longer leaders, and even anchovies on teaser heads can be fished faster than 3 knots. I once hooked into lots of coho while trolling a buzz bomb at 6 knots.

Depth

Your depth sounder/fishfinder is the key. Trolling can work with a 4oz weight, but the fish are usually deeper during the day. So to be successful you need to get down deeper. A diving device like Pink Ladies and Dipsy Divers will get the lure down deep to where the fish are.

In some places the salmon (especially Chinook) are typically 100-300' deep, sometimes 8nm from shore (in the straits or off the coast), and require downriggers with 18# cannon balls but in other places the salmon are 20' deep, close to shore, and a simple sliding 4-8oz weight or diver device will do the trick.

Timing

The best time to catch salmon is between dark and dawn. A salmon's eyes don't dilate. So at night they're on the surface and as the sky brightens and the sun rises, they go deeper. Fish the changes of light and also tide changes, following the rips just off the tide line.

Rules and Regulations

• Washington Statewide Fishing Regulations
• Specific Marine Area Definitions, Fish identification Guide

We also crab and shrimp from our sailboat. Always a great time.

Sound proofing the engine compartment

One of my winter projects was to see if I could quiet down the engine noise a bit.

The summer months in Seattle are hot and short of wind. We also are destination-focused and run the engine a lot. And since I was spending so much time in my lazarette tidying up my wiring harness and installing a new fuel tank, it seemed prudent to also see what could be done to reduce as much engine noise as possible.

When I installed the Yanmar 3GM30 in 2001, I added Barrier 104 to the to the engine room ceiling, and forward and aft bulkheads. I had left partial gaps aft and on the sides of the companionway. There were also opportunities to double up areas next to the galley.

I had a decibel meter from a previous project so used it to get a baseline reading and measure the improvements.

Roughly stated, a noise source doubles in volume with every 6 - 8 decibel increase, and is halved when reduced by corresponding decibel amount. Given the gaps I had where sound transmission was occurring, I felt there was a pretty good chance for significant improvements.

Common noise sources and their decibel values are listed below:

• 40 dB : quiet residential neighborhood
• 70 dB : normal speech at 12" distance 90 dB - heavy city traffic
• 95 - 100 dB : diesel engine room, not soundproofed
• 120 dB : jet take-off

In general, sounds above 85 are harmful, depending on how long and how often you are exposed to them and whether you wear hearing protection, such as earplugs or earmuffs.

My initial readings were:

	750rpm	2700rpm
Cockpit	61	70
Galley	66	79
Berth	62	80

I first created a PVC scaffolding to block out the areas where I had nowhere to attach the insulation. I used 3-8ft lengths of 1 inch, many elbows and T connections. The idea was simply to:

• Keep the insulation vertical and not allow it to come in contact with any moving parts,
• Ensure there was still plenty of incoming air to allow the engine to breathe
• Save our ears from premature hearing loss

Hamilton Jet supplied the Barrier 104 insulation material. At 2" thick, it is stiff enough not to fold. There is a lead lining, a thick, dense core and a foil backing sheet

Big snow in Kingston!

Our mild February finally gave way to Old Man Winter. A week after the Polar Vortex hit Chicago and the East Coast, those of us out here in Seattle accumulated the most February snow since 1916. It came come one storm cycle after another. We had a whopping 14in of snow between Feb 3-11. With 3.5 more inches Sunday and another 6.1 inches (and counting) on Monday, Sea-Tac airport recorded 20.2 inches of snow this month to set a new 100 year record.

I was afraid my new-ish dodger and bimini would get stretched out by the big snow. I was unable to get away from work for a week and finally sent a panic email to the marina. The Port of Kingston marina crews were busy but they always make the time to look out for our investments while we're away. I sent our awesome harbormaster Ray an email and he somehow found time to clear my dodger and bimini as he was making the rounds. Thanks, Ray!

Ray was a little concerned that my dingy on the bow was not shedding the snow very well. He was right. The next day we had a break in the weather and I finally got off our hill and caught the Edmonds/Kingston ferry. By the time I got there the waterline at the bow was an inch lower than normal and 6in had piled up.

Solar panels don't do well under snow! Lucky to have a harbormaster who we can call while we're away.

VHF and DSC

Digital Selective Calling (DSC) is for distress alerting. With the press of a button, users can send a pre-configured distress message to emergency personnel and other DSC-equipped boats in range. The digital message is sent over channel 70 and contains pertinent information about the boat, its Maritime Mobile Service Identity (MMSI) number, owner details, and emergency contact information. When a DSC radio is connected to a GPS, the Mayday includes the boat’s location. The transmission takes about one-third of a second and is automatically repeated until a rescue authority answers. Because the signal is digital, it has a better chance than a voice call of getting through in rough conditions.

A DSC transmission includes the priority of the call (distress, urgency, safety, routine), who the call is being sent to (all ships or a specific ship/station), and the transmitting boat’s identity, location, and nature of distress. DSC also allows sailors to use their VHF radios like a cell phone for ship-to-ship and ship-to-shore communications, without interfering with VHF hailing traffic and without the limitations and cost of cell coverage.

My DSC system consists of the Garmin 172C Sounder paired with Standard Horizon Intrepid VHF Radio. The VHF manual (now discontinued) couldn't include all the potential connections options but Standard Horizon was good enough to fill in the blanks.

Follow these steps to make the proper connections

• Standard Horizon Intrepid VHF Radio will need to receive GPS data on the Blue wire. This is an input to the radio. Connect the TX(+), Data Out wire of the Garmin. Usually Blue on Garmin.
• The Green and Brown wires should be attached to TX (-), RX (-) and or ground. Connect this to the black ground wire or (-) wires on the Garmin. Usually Black on Garmin
• The output of DSC data will occur on the Gray wire at 4800 speed. Output leaving the radio. Connect this to the RX(+), Data In Garmin wire. Usually Brown on Garmin

The Garmin GPS needs to be setup for NMEA 0183 (4800 baud rate) in this installation.

The INTREPID+ also displays time, date, Latitude/Longitude, Speed Over Ground (SOG), and Course Over Ground (COG). GPS repeatablility insures the accurate and safe transmission of your location in an emergency or when you are attempting to meet a fellow cruiser.

Obtaining a MMSI Number

Boat US has a simple MMSI request if you use them for your insurance needs. In the event of an emergency, Boat US will pass your information along to the Coast Guard, so there may be a slight delay.

I currently have 2 MMSI numbers:

• My US Boat issued MMSI# is 338087886.
• My FCC issued MMSI# is 368076210.

If traveling to Canada, Mexico, Bahama or other non-U.S. country, you are required to obtain a Ship's Station License from the FCC and they will provide an MMSI number that is valid for international cruising. To obtain a Ship’s Station License from the FCC, please visit fcc.gov/ship-radio-stations or call 877-480-3201

FCC Forms to request a MMSI#.

• Form 159
• Form 605

Testing your DSC

Do not test the red button as this will send out an illegal false alarm and cause an unnecessary rescue response! Instead, you may run a test call to the nationwide Coast Guard MMSI number, 003669999. Enter this number into your radio's calling memory and select the "Test Call" option from the radio's list of individual DSC calls. You can then press the "call" or "enter" key. Your radio will silently hail the Coast Guard with a digital signal on channel 70. If everything is working properly, your radio will almost immediately receive the Coast Guard's acknowledgement of your call, providing assurance that both your radio and the Rescue21 system are operating properly. You must be boating in an area served by Rescue21 to use this test.

Once you have an MMSI number programmed into your VHF, the DSC feature has other uses some boaters find convenient. The most common is to hail your friends without announcing on Channel 16. Instead you essential dial their MMSI number and your call is announced only on their radio, along with a notice of which channel on which you wish to communicate. Any voice exchange that follows will still be transmitted to all radios monitoring the designated channel, but at least you have not announced to all listeners on Channel 16 your intention to have that conversation. Using selective calling is easier on some radios than on others.

Practical Sailor Guide to DSC

Emergencies

If you have a life-threatening emergency and you have a DSC radio aboard, activating the Distress button is where to start. However, as there is no requirement for nearby vessels to have DSC capability, your DSC distress may go unanswered, in which case you will need to broadcast your distress on Channel 16. There is a "procedure" for sending out a distress call, but all you really need to know is to turn your VHF to Channel 16 and to high power, key the mike, and say "Mayday, Mayday, Mayday. This is the Tambourine. Our position is 24°33' north and 74°56' west and we are sinking." Try to speak slowly and clearly, and repeat this information three times. The essential information is Mayday, your position, and your emergency. If you have time, describe your boat and how many are aboard: "We are a 23' Mako, green hull, white decks, with two adults and two children aboard." If someone is injured, mention that.

If you don't get an immediate response keep periodically sending out a Mayday broadcast as long as the radio will function, taking care to give your position with every transmission. If time permits, scan through the other channels and interrupt any radio traffic you hear with your Mayday broadcast. If you don't hear traffic, try transmitting on Coast Guard Channel 22A.

If your emergency isn't immediately life threatening, activating the DSC distress button may not be appropriate. Try raising the Coast Guard and/or other vessels in the vicinity on Channel 16, saying Pan-Pan instead of Mayday. This is the urgency call--Pan-Pan, Pan-Pan, Pan-Pan (pronounced pahn-pahn). Make this call just like a distress call, except state exactly what assistance you want. For example, maybe you have a controllable leak, and you just want help standing by in case it gets worse.

Navigation and safety

Channel 13 is for navigational use between vessels. It is on this channel that large vessels in close proximity announce their intentions to one another. This is also the primary channel used at bridges and locks. Use this channel to announce your arrival to a bridge or lock tender or to communicate with a nearby ship or other large vessel. You do not need to call on Channel 16 first; Channel 13 serves both as a calling and a working channel. Transmission power on this channel is restricted to 1 watt, so be sure to switch your radio to low power.

Channels 6 and 22A are also important to pleasure boaters. Channel 6 is reserved for intership safety use, primarily during search and rescue operations. Channel 22A is reserved for communications with the Coast Guard. By the way, it is illegal to contact the Coast Guard for a radio check. Call another boat instead.