Tuesday, November 28, 2017

Chummin'

Flying Fish!

Out for the late Fall/December salmon and crab season rip and got very lucky. We dropped the crab pots and went out trolling. No bites but my 'chum' said he had a vivid dream that we were going to pull a big one in that day.

He was right!

As we were approaching the marina, we noticed a trawler off-loading to a research vessel. We were still empty handed so we asked them if they were selling any salmon. No they said, as a research vessel they were not licensed for that, but they would give us one of their Chum Salmon.

We pulled up close enough and over it came, flying 15 feet into the cockpit. It was filleted on the dock 15 minutes later and on the grills as soon as we were home. Amazing... and did I mention we also caught a 7in Dungeness.

Monday, August 21, 2017

Montague Harbor

Mt Norman and the Pub Bus

After 15 years and many stays in this beautiful harbor, we spent two days and finally climbed Mt Norman and rode the Pub Bus into town.

Chinook Run

Blackmouth Beauty

Apple Cove Point always seems to draw the fisherman with the Chinook are running. Dropping the crab pots can also help put dinner on the table.

Island Escape

San Juan Islands and Canadian Gulf Islands

We spent two weeks making the circuit from Kingston thru the San Juans' and up to Saltspring Island, thru Active Pass, Tumbo Island and back around in perfect weather. We just beat the smoke that filled the skies of Washington for the following two weeks.

Monday, July 3, 2017

Safety Equipment

There are 5 mandatory safety devices required for all boat owners to have onboard:

  1. Life Jackets (PFD)
  2. Fire Extinguishers (Minimum of 2 Class B)
  3. Throwable flotation devices (Lifesling + Cushins)
  4. Visual signaling devices (Flares)
  5. Sound signaling devices (Air Horn)

Personal Flotation Devices

A new addition has been a West Marine branded Sterns A-33 Automatic Offshore PFD. A bit expensive but you never want to skimp on personal safety.

My two other PDFs have all been recharged this year. The Admiral noticed that they have never been re-armed, only annually inspected. They turned out to be in need of a little TLC so she went to West Marine for Leyland replacement kits. These self inflating lifejackets have a colored indicator to let you know when they need a re-arming. “Green means go/good, red means no/replace” Here's a good article on how to re-arm them.

We also carry 8 throwable floatation cushions, for a total of 11 USCG approved floatation devices.

Sterns SOSpenders (blue)
Self inflating
V86000 Pro
1F Manual/Automatic
38gram CO2 cylinder
Bayonet Assembly w/1/2" thread
Comes with 1-V80040 Yellow Bobbin
Order new

Mustang Survival (red)
Manual Inflator System
840 Series
33 gram co2 cylinder
w/1/2" thread
840AMU-85202Z
849AML gasket
with 6 extra green indicator pins
Order new

Fire Extinguishers

Also purchased new (May 2017). Most extinguishers last between five and 15 years. They are cheap enough, so we replace every few years, and never try to have them rebuilt. The old ones we take to a hazardous waste facility. We updated when the Kid Fire Extinguisher recall was issued.

Types of Fire Extinguishers:
Fire Extinguishers are classified by letters and numbers according to the class (type) and the size fire they can put out. The letter (A, B or C), indicates the class of fire. The number (1, 3, 5, 10, etc.), is a measure of the capacity of the extinguisher - the larger the number the greater the capacity.

Coast Guard Requirements:
For our 36 footer, 2 Class B-1 or 1 Class B-II is required, at a minimum. Class B fires are flammable liquids and gases such as gasoline, diesel, kerosene, alcohol, grease, paints, propane, etc.

We tend to carry 5 extinguishers onboard. One in the starboard lazarette, one in the galley behind the sink, one at the fuze box, and 2 spares next to the starboard bunk. Overkill? Probably. But most B-I extinguishers will typically only last approximately 8-12 seconds.

If you ever find you need to use one, remember the “PASS” Principle:

  1. Pull the pin at the top of the cylinder
  2. Aim the nozzle at the base of the fire
  3. Squeeze or press the handle
  4. Sweep the contents from side to side at the base of the fire until it goes out

Flares

Also purchased new (July 2020). Replace flares and all other pyrotechnic signaling devices (like smoke signals) every 42 months from date of manufacture. No auto/roadside flares as they must be USCG approved. Typically, this means that you must replace your flares every three boating seasons. 5 things you should know about flares.

Ditch Bag

Contents (May 2017)

12 Should-Have Safety Equipment for Your Boat

Depending on the type of boating you do and where you do it, some of these may be required or only recommended items. Either way, you can pack most of these aboard even the smallest of boats.

  1. Medical kit for cuts, scrapes, seasickness or small emergencies
  2. Anchor with line to hold your boat in place while you wait for help to arrive
  3. Bailing device or bucket to dewater and stay afloat
  4. Oars or paddles if the engine quits
  5. Cellphone to call for help
  6. VHF radio to call for help
  7. Knife to cut a line around a fouled propeller
  8. Snorkel mask to inspect what’s going on under the boat
  9. Heavy duty flashlight
  10. Skier or diver down flag
  11. Working running lights if your boat is equipped with them
  12. A way to get weather updates because things can change quickly even on a lake

Sunday, June 18, 2017

Islander History

By Jim Gravelyn - Edited by Randall Marquis

Once upon a time (in the mid 1950's) there was a boat builder named Joseph McGlasson (he died in 1993) who designed, built and successfully marketed a 24 foot wooden sailboat, the Islander, in Costa Mesa, California. Joseph, perhaps inspired by his own last name, came to ponder the idea of building his boat out of fiberglass instead of wood and in 1961 approached a company named Glas Laminates to help him accomplish this. Glas Laminates was making its money from the sale of shower stalls and portable toilets, but they knew fiberglass, so they took Joseph's sweet little 24 foot sailboat and created a mold from which the first fiberglass Islander 24's were built. The mold carried the lines from the planks used in the wooden boat and those grooves in the fiberglass hull became a signature feature of the Islander 24, and other Islander models later. [Editor's note: Ralph Brown confirms this word-for-word.]

Well, this turned out to be a damned fine boat, and they sold like hotcakes. In fact, they sold as many as they could make, and perhaps the two partners in this collaboration weren't prepared for their success, because in 1962 Glas Laminates and Mr. McGlasson began to go their separate ways, with Glas Laminates changing its name to Columbia Sailboats and introducing the Sparkman & Stephens-designed Columbia 29, and Joseph with his McGlasson Boat Co. adding the Islander 32 to his line. The divorce wasn't amicable, and I don't pretend to know what happened, but if you ever have a chance to see an Islander 24 sitting next to a Columbia 24, Columbia Contender 24, or Columbia Challenger 24, you will see that the hulls are identical except that their (Columbia) versions have the planking lines removed. Perhaps the comparison will make you realize where McGlasson's bitterness came from... he felt that his design was stolen and used to build boats that competed for buyers with his own company. [Editor's note: Ralph Brown confirms this word-for-word.]

Now you know some Columbia history, too.

(As an aside, McGlasson and Columbia were not the only Costa Mesa boat builders using fiberglass - Jensen Marine, with the 'Lapworth designed' Cal 24, was also headquartered locally. I think that's weird. Think about it. It's the early sixties, fiberglass boats are about as common as spinnakers in a hurricane, and three different companies are pumping out fiberglass 24-foot sailboats in the same town! Go figure.) [Editor's note: Ralph Brown says, "Same f**king street!"]

(Oh, guess what else - Westsail started in Costa Mesa, too. In the sixties. Building the first fiberglass heavy-displacement production cruising boat, the Westsail 32. At that point in time, Costa Mesa had to be the fiberglass sailboat capital of the world.)

Anyway, by 1963 the McGlasson Boat Co. was incorporated as Wayfarer Yacht Corporation, with McGlasson still the principal owner and designer. I call him the designer with some hesitation, because that's not exactly how it worked. He took credit for designing the 24 back in the fifties, and the 32 in the sixties, but I've been told that McGlasson pulled a plug from a wooden 'Lapworth designed' 34 that he'd commissioned back in the fifties and that was the source of the fiberglass Islander 32. (This situation differs from the Columbia hijacking of his 24 design, because Lapworth had been paid for his work - he just hasn't been getting the proper credit.) This information makes me wonder whether Lapworth designed the 24 also. [Editor's note: Ralph Brown says no he didn't.]

Moving along with our history lesson, Wayfarer was bought out of Bankruptcy court by Ralph Brown and Ben Kanter in 1963, and in late 1965 we start seeing the company use the name Islander Yachts, with the white swoosh of sail on a black rectangle (and vice versa, too) for a logo. [Editor's note: Ralph Brown had a friend in the marketing department of Airstream Trailers (in Mexico) who moonlighted on the side. This friend did all the advertising design for Islander. Ralph says one of his creations was the logo, "We gave him a boat for his work."]

In 1968 Wayfarer sold Islander Yachts to Cosmodyne Inc., and Islander Yachts Inc. became a subsidiary of a giant conglomerate [sold for over 1 million dollars]. That relationship lasted a mere three years. In 1971, Cosmodyne sold Islander Yachts to Radlon Inc., an even bigger conglomerate, and that's the last ownership change as far as I know.

For those of you interested in minutiae, until 1968 the address was Wayfarer Yacht Corporation, 1682 Placentia Avenue, Costa Mesa, California, 92627, with a phone number of 714-646-7437 or 714-646-7436. Upon purchase by Cosmodyne, the address became Islander Yachts Inc., 777 W. 17th Street, Costa Mesa, California, 92627, telephone uncertain. [Editor's note: Ralph says this was NOT a location change... the production facility was a corner lot, and the address was changed to the other street name. Now we know they were at the corner of 17yh Street and Placentia! And yes, the phone numbers are quite correct!] In 1971, as part of Radlon, the address was still 777 W. 17th Street, but we know the telephone number was 714-646-7434, which is close enough to the phone numbers back in the sixties for me to think that the phones had never changed. By 1974, the address had changed to 1922 Barranca Road, Irvine, California, 92705, with a phone number of 714-549-8526, and we know that production had switched to Irvine also.

As a subsidiary, the company also sold kit versions of Islanders under the name Yachtcraft. Ed Carter, the original owner of a Yachtcraft Islander 37, says that kit boats were generally discontinued models, and constructed in the same place that current models were being constructed and by the same workers. He bought his boat after the 36 had replaced the 37 in the Islander lineup. Since Ed visited his boat daily while the hull was being laid up, he's probably a good source of information about Islander's production facilities.

At some point in the 1970's, Tradewinds Marine, also of Costa Mesa, bought the molds for Bruce King's Islander 55 and produced some boats. One of these beauties - hull #1 in fact - was built for the Beach Boys with a Jacuzzi in the bathtub and an electric piano in the cabin.

Nordic Yachts and the Mariner Yacht Company are two more companies that fit into the picture somewhere, either as producers of Islanders or of boats using Islander molds. (The Nordic 34 supposedly used the Islander 34 molds, while the Islander 48 supposedly began life as the East Coast-built Mariner 47.) And there's a guy who owns a 32 foot sailboat that looks like an Islander, has Islander specifications, came with Islander brochures and Islander manuals, but his title says Iona and his hull number is not an Islander hull number. The answer to that little puzzle is that Iona bought the molds for the I32 MkII, the I24, and the Excalibur, and produced lighter versions with about 30% less fiberglass in the hulls. (In the case of the 24, they extended it into a 25.)

As an example of the confusion generated by ownership changes, my boat, the Islander 37, exists in the Wayfarer-built version, the Islander-built version, and the Yachtcraft version. Add the fact that my title says "Wayfarer Yacht Corporation" with a year of "1969" - one year after Wayfarer sold Islander Yachts to Cosmodyne - and you have more than just a mess... you have an inexplicable mess.

It gets even hazier near the end. In 1984 the production of boats was moved to Costa Rica and bankruptcy followed in 1986. Although I don't know the details of this failure, I do know that it was accompanied by the bankruptcy of more than fifty other boat manufacturers, including venerable sailing names like Cal, Pearson, Gulfstar, Endeavor, Irwin, Morgan, Cape Dory, Bristol, and Tartan, all of whom were whipsawed by the combination of high resin prices and the institution of a 10% Luxury Tax on new boats in 1986.

Many of those other companies remained in business and emerged from bankruptcy, but Islander would never build another boat. During the process of liquidation, Newport Offshore Yachts bought the molds for the I36, the most popular Islander ever produced, and all of the files were bought by Fuqua Industries, Inc., which became Actava Group, Inc., which was merged into Metromedia International Group, Inc., maker of Snapper lawn mowers and Ked shoes, among other things.

Learn more at Sailboat Data

What you need to fly a spinnaker

Spinnaker Basics

  1. spinnaker halyard
  2. spinnaker pole track and pole fitting on the forward side of the mast. (the location for this may be on the fleet drawings)
  3. spinnaker pole ("pole" for short)
  4. spinnaker pole lift (halyard for the pole)(sometimes mistakenly called a "topping lift", which is really the line which holds up the outer end of the boom). For the full-race treatment, the tail of the pole lift can be lead back to the cockpit.
  5. spinnaker; (also called the "chute" - a shortened form of the old term "parachute spinnaker")
  6. at least one spinnaker afterguy (often shoterned to just "guy") to pull the pole aft, a spinnaker sheet, and a foreguy (to pull/hold the pole foreward & down) Two sheets and guys are preferred to rig for gybing the "chute". The afterguy is usually heavier (thicker/stronger) than the sheet, but two guys would sufice if you wanted gybing at least cost
  7. at least 2 snatchblocks (one for the sheet, one for the guy) to go on the rail to lead the lines aft to winches; 4 are better, so you can rig for gybing (if racing)
  8. a snatchblock or other block to rig the foreguy. (A Full Monte installation would lead the foreguy aft to a cam or clam cleat on the cockpit combing.) Access to a winch is usually not needed for a foreguy on an I-36.
  9. if serious about racing, I'd suggest 2 double turning blocks at the aft end of the rail so sheet/guy snatchblock leads can be easily moved fore and aft for optimum performance; these also result in a consistent lead angle to your winches.

Rigging Spinnaker lines

Spinnaker Lines Sail Connection

It is easiest to hang the halyard and pole lift on the outside of the spar, but the dedicated types would insist on them being inside the mast to reduce windage.

An additional thought if you are only planning on cruising, is to order your spinnaker with a "sock" which is a tube of cloth that can be pulled up and down with a continuous line. This makes it much easier for two people to set and douse the chute. Since it somewhat reduces sail area and the shape of the head of the spinnaker, it is not used for serious racing (except single handed racing!).

Again, in the die-hard category, the pole fitting on the mast can be rigged with lines and lead blocks back to the cockpit so the inboard end of the pole can be raised and lowered by the cockpit crew. This keeps weight off the foredeck, and it is often necessary to raise the inboard end way up when doing a dip-pole gybe so the outer end of the pole can clear the headstay and be above the lifelines.

All of the go-fast items above can be added after an initial setup to keep first costs down, with one exception. A fixed pole attachment fitting can be put on the mast which is cheaper than a track and sliding fitting. This will make gybing more difficult, and limit how you can adjust spinnaker trim, but if you only want a spinnaker for cruising, it is a simple solution. The fixed fitting and its installation would be the only throw-away investment if you later went to a racing setup.

Sail Inventory


Sail Luff Foot Leach Wt Oz SqFt
Main 39' 42' 6" 42' 6" Approx 6-6.5 250
Lapper 110 37' 17' 7.5" 34' 4" Approx 5.75 - 6.25 314
LW 150 G 40' 6" 22' 39' 2" 4.2 - 4.5 441
HW 150 G 41' 9" 22' 41' 6" 5.25 458

Main Sail

Rollet Tasker main new in 2014. Heavy duty, premium 8.3oz Dacron Crosscut High Aspect, three reef.
  • Seams three rows zig-zag stitching with UV stabilised thread
  • Stainless steel rings reinforced with webbing and leather over webbing
  • Hand sewn leather reinforcements on wear points
  • Extra heavy radial patches
  • Extra large or double tapes with a minimum of 2 stitching rows
  • Heavy duty batten pockets with Velcro lock or tie in type
  • Mainsails are constructed with alloy headboards and webbed / shackled on luff hardware
  • Low stretch leech line with Clam Cleat
  • Two draft stripes for visual reference of draft position
  • Bolt rope foot

Jib

Three jibs, my light 150 shown below.

Profurl

New in 2012

Spinnakers

The spinnaker I have is for an Islander 32 with a J=13.5’ and I=44.5’
I would be interested if it was a 1.5 oz., otherwise it is a little on the small size. Our J is 14.7’ and I is 45’.
I am looking for spinnakers for an I-36. We want to extend our cruising so will need a collection of spinnakers to cover some ocean crossings.

Lazy Jack is made by Sail Care and is called the Sail Cradle MK IV - Model 505

A unique mainsail handling system that once installed and deployed, allows you to drop your mainsail into a three-stage cradle system that does the following:
The Sail Cradle MK III, designed and engineered by SailCare, is a unique mainsail handling system that allow your to drop your mainsail into a three-stage cradle system that
  • Lets you drop and secure the main quickly, then finish the job back in the quiet of your harbor or after dropping anchor
  • Is a great aid to short-handed sailors or couples
  • Keeps the mainsail from spilling off the boom and onto the deck - the main stays clean longer
  • Stows against the mast while sailing and not in use
  • No modifications to the mainsail
  • No lines to catch or interfere when hoisting the main or while sailing
  • Does not interfere with running back stays
  • Works well with conventional or full batten sails
  • No lines in the way if you have to reef the mainsail
  • No modifications to the mainsail cover
  • Fits single or multiple spreader rigs
  • Deploys quickly when needed
  • All stainless and marine hardware plus a high grade double braided polyester line and a highbred marine grade shock cord. Both are UV treated
  • Kits come fully assembled with pop rivets or drill bits, taps & screws, full set of instructions, and a tube of Tef-Gel anti-seize/anti-corrosion protection

Tuesday, May 30, 2017

Humpback whale off Kingston



This guy hung out in the ferry path for 30 minutes. It drew quite a crowd but seemed to know when it was time to head north.

Yanmar 3GM30 Maintenance

This beauty was installed in October 2001 replacing the Palmer P60 gas engine. I paired the transmission with a 3-blade 13in fixed propeller. It will run all day at 2800rpm burning only 0.6 gal per hr. With a 27 gallon fuel tank, that's approximately 45hrs of run time between fuel ups. It has definitely made cruising a pleasure.

Type: Vertical, fresh water cooled, 4-cycle diesel engine
Model: 3GM30(F)
Cylinders: 3
Continuous output rating: 17.7kW (24PS)/3400min-1
Maximum output: 19.9kW (27PS)/3600min-1
Engine oil capacity: 2.7L DElo 400 SAE Viscosity 30W
Clutch oil: 0.3L SAE Viscosity #30
Fuel filter: Racor 500FGSS (new 2016)

Yammer built the 3GM30 from 1983-2005.

Maintenance/Upgrade Log

2020 | 2019

2018 (1741hrs)

  • Rigging inspection
  • Valve Adjustment
  • Raw water pump
  • Rear main seal/bearing
  • Crankshaft rear seal
  • Engine alignment
  • Replace fuel lines on engine and engine fuel filter housing
  • Drained coolant and changed out coolant hoses and clamps, refilled system with fresh Yanmar coolant
  • Changed lube oil and filter
  • Changed air filter
  • Changed transmission oil
  • Fuel lift pump gasket
  • Thermostat
  • Adjusted throttle cable tension
  • Fuel Lift Pump
  • Oil/Filter
  • Racor 30micron primary and secondary filter
  • Galley Spray Faucet
  • Galley Water Filter
  • Head Faucet
  • LED Cabin lights
  • Zinc on shaft (May)
  • Fuel Lift Pump
  • Dodger/Bimini Connector Panel
  • 3 Small Forward Portside Portlights
  • Traveller blocks and lead lines

2017

  • Oil/Filter
  • Racor 10micron filter
  • Autopilot
  • Windless
  • Solar
  • Bimini
  • Zinc on shaft

2016

  • Oil/Filter
  • Racor 10micron filter
  • Dodger

2015

  • Oil/Filter
  • Racor 10micron filter
  • Racor Assembly

2014

  • Oil/Filter
  • Racor 10micron filter
  • Exhaust Elbow

2013

  • Oil/Filter
  • Racor 10micron filter
  • Raw Water Pump/impeller

2012

  • Oil/Filter
  • Racor 10micron filter

2011

  • Oil/Filter
  • Racor 10micron filter
  • Timing Gear Case Seal

2010

  • Oil/Filter
  • Racor 10micron filter
  • Raw Water Impeller

2009

  • Oil/Filter
  • Racor 10micron filter
  • Raw Water Impeller

2005

  • Raw Water Impeller

2004

  • xxx

2003

  • xxx

2002

  • Valve Adjustment

2001

  • Yanmar 3GM30F


Monday, May 29, 2017

2017 Haulout - Edmonds

7 days on the hard in the Port of Edmonds this year. Edmonds was a little more expensive but it's 30 minutes from home, 5 minutes from Gallagher's, and made it easier to get help on the windless and fairing out the hull. Thanks Lar!







Waxing and gellcoat fixes

A 45 year old boat is tough to make look like new. I've not been super attentive with waxing and gelcoat repair. I figure I can always get to this later, but later never seems to come. When I finally do commit to a shining boat, here's what I'll do...

Repair the gelcoat (from Practical Sailor)

Enter the Preval Sprayer. It's quick to set up and clean, and provides adequate coverage in a single application. Best of all, it's available in auto supply stores and hardware for just $7, so when you are done with it, you can just throw it away.

The Preval Sprayer is not a new product. It has been used for many years by boatbuilders and boatyards to do spot repairs to gelcoat. It's not economical even for a yard to do minor cosmetic repairs with a big, compressor-driven industrial spray gun. Not only is the setup and cleanup time-consuming, but large spray guns require a relatively large quantity of gelcoat to operate, which is wasteful when doing touch-up work. For an extra $3, the Preval comes with its own 16-ounce paint jar that screws onto the base of the propellant can. However, we don't recommend buying the paint jar. It is too big for gelcoat work, as it requires nearly 2 ounces of liquid to keep the stem of the propellant can immersed. This is 2 ounces that you cannot afford to waste.

Instead, use an unwaxed paper cup. Just stick the stem of the propellant can in a corner of the cup as you spray. You must be careful to keep the stem immersed in gelcoat, or the sprayer will sputter and splatter. You must also be careful not to tilt the propellant can more than 60 degrees, or the spray will come out in large droplets. As long as these two precautions are followed, the Preval appears to do just as good a job as the more expensive and time-consuming Badger Air Brush.

The Preval will spray 16 ounces of liquid with a full can of propellant. This means you can re-use it for several gelcoat repairs before you toss it.

However, you must carefully clean it after every use. Cleaning is a quick three-step procedure: First, stick the stem in acetone and spray for a few seconds. Then clean the strainer on the bottom of the stem by inverting the propellant can, putting your finger over the spray button orifice to create back pressure, and give it a few quick bursts.

As a final precaution, stick the stem back in acetone and spray it through the system for a few more seconds. When buying gelcoat, it's best to check first with the builder of your boat, because he is most likely to have colors that match, or give you the information you need to make a match. Mini-craft of Florida offers an extensive supply of gelcoats and pigments, as well as its own color-matching service. You can also find pigments at retailers like West Marine, Defender, or Jamestown Distributors or your local boatyard. Be aware that some of the so-called "gelcoat repair kits" sold at retailers are not formulated in the same way as your original gelcoat, and will not deliver the same finish. Mini-craft or a local fiberglass supply house is a better source.

As with any gelcoat job, the surface must be perfectly faired with auto body and/or lacquer putty, or fairing compound before spraying. The gelcoat must be thinned slightly with reducer to spray evenly (although acetone is often recommended from thinning, it will cause the finish to more quickly lose its brightness, color, and gloss).

You can't forget to coat the wet gelcoat with PVA (polyvinyl alcohol) or it won't dry tack free. PVA is available from Evercoat and others and is easily sprayed over your repair with the Preval. It cleans with water.

After the gelcoat is dry, you must sand it with 260-grit wet/dry paper, then with 400 and 600 grit, and finally, buff it with polishing compound.

For more on gelcoat repair and fixing just about anything else on your old boat, Don Casey’s "This Old Boat," is a great resource. And my recent blog post on fiberglass polishing links to various Practical Sailor tests of articles on cleaning, protect, and maintain gelcoat.

Shopping list:
  • Unwaxed paper cups
  • Gelcoat and catalyst
  • Pigments
  • Gellcoat thinner
  • PVA
  • Preval sprayer
  • Paper towels
  • Acetone
  • Fairing compound
  • Wet/dry sandpaper 260, 400, 600
  • Polishing compound
  • Wax - Collinite Heavy Duty Paste Fleetwax

Note to self: Re-watch the process in this West Marine video

Thursday, May 18, 2017

Autopilot!

The Spring Defender sale somehow kicked me into purchasing some items that I've been wanting for years. The Admiral approved these 'safety' features and prices were 50+% off retail with a $200 rebate from Raymarine so that was all I needed.

My last install this year is the Raymarine Evolution EV-100 Wheel Autopilot Pack w/ P70 Control Head. Hmmm, I might have to switch from my Garmin chart plotter, GPS, sounder unit to a newer Raymarine a Series, c Series, e Series or gS Series MFD Pilot Control... next year.



I've never used an autopilot so this year will require some experimentation. I didn't want to drill any new holes in fiberglass right off, as the end game would be to ultimately control the autopilot from the pedestal. But I need to know more about how the P-70 control unit might be adversely affected by the compass magnets, and the displays resistance to weather. More importantly, I need to answer the question, do I stay with my tried and true Garmin 178C GPS chart plotter, or make the switch to one of the new Raymarine systems above. Hmmm, time will tell.

For this season, I installed the unit aft of the starboard cubby. Next season, perhaps a new pedestal, with a nav pod that can accommodate all the navigation equipment for a trip around Vancouver Island, and beyond.



The ACU-100 Control Unit and EV-1 Sensor Core are located just below the in the starboard lazarette.

Wednesday, May 17, 2017

Solar Bimini!


This year I purchased 2-120 watt, 12v flexible monocrystaline solar panels that attach to my bimini, sewn by Liberty Bay Canvas in Poulsbo. These panels will provide up to 20Ahrs on good day. This system feeds my secondary battery bank (lights, propane, stereo, windless, and refrigeration (some day).

I will also be able to charge the house bank if needed. The Harbor Freight 500 watt charge controller is located in the starboard stern lazaret ensures the batteries don't overcharge. There's 'load' output which acts as a low voltage disconnect circuit that I may connect to some cockpit lights at some point.







The finishing touch was the connector panel which was added after the bimini is installed.



I have 14 gauge wiren running from the solar panels to the charge controller and 12 guage running to the batteries.



I've played with several other rigid solar panels over the years but always managed to break them. I riveted aluminum awning tracks to these new panels to so they can slide out in the winter months. The last few summers have been hot up in Seattle so this should really keep the sun down and the batteries up.

Iverson built my dodger, but I wanted to do something a little different with my bimini. I had scavanged some framework from King Canvas in Ballard, and altered my old dodger handrails to complete the design. Liberty Bay Canvas sewed the bimini and connectter panel.

A windlass after 45 years!



Not sure why we're finally adding a windlass. Maybe it was spraining my back clam digging in the Broken Islands? Whatever, we just installed a windlass (Lewmar V1) with the help of a marine electrician. He recommended I use my secondary battery bank which I only use when at anchor. This bank is located under the sink in the head. This is my older battery bank so I always run my engine when using the windlass, as it gets a nice trickle charge/amp boost from the alternator.

All I had to do was run 50' of #4 awg back and forth to my windlass. Both banks contain 2-80Ahr deep cells I purchased from Costco/Interstate. I charge my secondary battery bank with 2-120 watt solar cells and a separate charge controller when on shore power.



The windlass draws 80 amps, so it's best to run the engine and send a few extra amps to the backup battery bank which then provides plenty of power.

We also installed foot switches on the bow. Last piece was to run 14/3 wire to high up inside the companionway where I installed a helm switch. This way I can run the windlass solo from the cockpit for a quick drop in a crowded harbor.


I spray painted the chain at 30 foot intervals all the way up to 120ft. This wears off every year and requires repainting.

The anchor roller was destroyed in 2019 in a anchoring mishap in Deer Harbor when I hooked a derelict vessel. Long story but I'm happy and far better off with the repairs which included a new anchor roller, 1/2" stainless plate under the roller and headstay, navigation lights and pulpit.

   
We now have three sets of ground tackle in the anchor locker. The primary tackle now has 150ft of 5/16in G4 chain and 200ft spliced to 5/8" 3-strand rope with a 35# Delta anchor.

I can't overstate that the chain and windlass has required a completely different anchoring technique. It's taken me a fair bit of time to master. The main difference is the time it takes to drop the anchor. Mine drops about a foot per second. So if you're in 20 feet off water, that's 80 seconds to drop to a 4:1. I finally learned that I need patience, so adopted this technique.

I didn't like the original rode system, which came with 60 feet of chain spliced to 200 feet of nylon rode. The splice would continually get hung up no matter what I tried, and pushing the splice down the gypsy even with gloved hands was a recipe for disaster. After a couple less than pleasant experiences, I replaced the chain with a longer 150 ft length. I've not had to drop more that that (yet) so I'm happy now.

Previous to the windlass, I used 10 feet of chain and 3 strand anchor rode running through a hawsepipe. This in addition to a kellet which is incredibly effective and entails running a 20# lead ball on a line down the rope to the chain. This really holds the chain to the bottom and severely limits swinging in tight anchorages. Worked great for 20 years... but now I'm lazy! Other benefits of the short chain/kellet approach:
  • They can contain and minimize swing radii in light conditions
  • They can help dampen "sailing" at anchor
  • They can keep a boat stationary when using bow and stern anchors
  • They can help ensure that rode is kept down and away from the boat’s keel, rudder, and propeller.
Tonnes of room in the anchor locker (below).