Cruising the Farmers Markets

Farmers Markets bring together the best of the islands artists, farmers, potters, woodworkers, bakers, fishermen, and photographers.

A delicious and fun way to enjoy the islands and the surrounding areas. The markets are held around mid-May thru September at many of the seaside communities accessible by boaters. You will enjoy connecting with the local farmers, bakers, fisherman and craftsmen.

United States

Anacortes

Just up from the Cap Sante Marina on 7th St. & 'R' Ave, this is one of the best. Having started in the 1990s it's one of the more established markets around.

• Saturday, May thru October
• 9a.m. to 2p.m.
• Website

Bellingham

More than 50 booths in Depot Market Square, 1100 Railroad Avenue. A bit of a walk from the waterfront but well worth it. The Bellingham Farmers Market supports local sustainable agriculture by connecting the public with local farmers, artisans, and other producers in an economically viable marketplace.

• Saturday, April thru December
• 10am to 3pm
• Website

Blaine

Support your local farmers gardeners, artists and crafts people!

• Saturday, June thru October
• 10am to 2pm
• Website

Coupeville, Whidbey Island

Running for 41 years!

• Saturday, February thru October
• 10am to 2 pm
• Website

Kingston, Kitsap Peninsula

Live music and dozens of vendors.

• Saturday, May 5 - October 27
• 9:30am - 2:30pm
• Website

Langley, Whidbey Island

The one closure is the Choochokam Arts estival weekend in early July.

• Friday, May thru September
• 2pm to 6pm
• Website

Lopez Island

Located in Fisherman's Bay, the Lopez Island Farmers Market is on Village Road, in Lopez Village.

• Saturday, May thru September
• 10am to 2pm
• Website

Oak Harbor, Whidbey Island

A 10 block walk up from the Oak Harbor Marina up on Washington State Highway 20.

• Saturday, June thru September
• 11am to 3pm
• Website

Orcas Island

In the Heart of Eastsound Village on North Beach Road. Over 40 booths!

• Saturday, May thru September
• 10am to 3pm
• Website

Point Roberts

Locally grown and organic products.

• Saturday, June thru August
• 11am to 2pm
• Website

Port Townsend

Just a short walk up the staircase to 650 Tyler St. A thriving market stemming from a network of sustainable farmers that culminates in a glorious presentation produce, crafts, arts and music.

• Wednesday June thru September
• 2pm to 6pm
• Saturday April thru mid-December
• 9am to 2pm
• Website

San Juan Island

Visit Friday Harbor on 150 Nichols Street for beautiful produce, crafts, baked goods, meats and seafoods.

• Saturday, April thru September
• 10am to 1pm
• Website

Canada

Saltspring Island

Our favorite, located in Centennial Park, Ganges Harbor.

• Tuesday 2:00pm - 6:00pm
• June to the end of October
• Saturday 9:00am - 4:00pm
• April or Easter weekend (whichever comes first) through October
• Website

Jumbo Shrimp!

Tasty morsels!

Nothing beats the taste of seafood fresh out of the water. In Puget Sound we're blessed with unsurpassed taste treats like Dungeness Crab and Spot Shrimp.

We've never pursued Spot Shrimp before this year, beyond the occasional run to Costco ;-). How hard can it be to pull 300 ft of leaded line up with a weighted trap? It turned out that there were a few hard lessons to learn, but it was well worth the effort, even for the short 3 day season in Admiralty Inlet and Seattle/Bremerton.

We have seen Grey Whales feeding on shrimp so we knew where to set our traps, which is not easy on a sailboat with the wind. On the first drop we ended up with line around the prop. Dang. Sailed into the shallows hoping to drag the pot with us, but the line snapped, losing the trap to the depths. Meanwhile, a pod of Killer Whales passed us by, probably laughing at our foolishness.

Sailing back, we found it extremely difficult to locate the trap, even with a MOB mark set on the GPS. The amount of line out and a tide running combined to place the bouy a long way from where you think it would be. Plus, the depth required sets you a long way off land so triangulation is of little help.

The pros all seem to have electric winch assemblies to pull their pots which is not something I've invested in... yet. So hand pulling was the only solution, which was not all that bad. We're used to this technique with crab.

LESSONS LEARNED

• Look for 300+/- foot depths with a sandy bottom.
• Shrimp travel in schools. Use your depth sounder to locate 'clouds' of shrimp.
• Drifting is problematic, especially on a sailboat. Stay close. Pull pots every hour.

BAIT RECIPE
Go to the dollar store and buy and mix:

• 1 box instant potatoes
• 2 cans dry cat food
• 4 cans Friskies cat food
• 2 cans mackerel
• 1-2 cups liquid fish fertilizer
• Or just use cat foot soaked in vegetable oil as bait, freezing the night before.

CATCH

• Twist their heads off and put their bodies on ice.
• Or put them whole in ziplock bags and keep them alive on ice.
• Don't let them sit directly on ice or in fresh water.

TO KEEP POTS FROM DRIFTING

• In winds, big tides, or on ledges, suggest 150' of extra line
• Add an anchor 30' above pot on a 10' line

RULES

• Limit 80 shrimp per person
• Each harvester must have a separate container for their catch, either in their possession or identified with their name.
• No minimum carapace size.
• Maximum of two shrimp pots per person and no more than four shrimp pots per boat.

Prior to harvesting, check the shellfish rule change free hotline 866-880-5431 or visit the WDFW website.

Mildew Prevention

Mildew Preventers That Really Work

Any boat moored in a slip with a bilge is destined to have moisture. Absorbing that moisture and keeping the air moving are critical control factors. The last line of defense is to keep the surfaces clean and coated with a preventative substance.

Practical Sailor has again done a great job looking at cheap alternatives to the expensive off the shelf potions. Below is a snippet from the Practical Sailor article.

The two homemade spray formulas we tested each cost about one penny per ounce. Like the other mildew preventers in our test, you use these as cleaners by simply spraying the product on, wiping any excess away, and leaving it on. Before applying to any fabric, test the spray on an inconspicuous sample spot.

Formula A

• 1 quart hot water
• 1 tablespoon baking soda (sodium bicarbonate)
• 2 tablespoons washing soda (sodium carbonate)
• 2 tablespoons trisodium phosphate (TSP)5

Much like Concrobium (which it is modeled after), our homemade Formula A removed the mildew from test carpet on board and kept it away, even though the area got wet again. It was also very effective in the moist-environment lab test.

Formula B

• 1 quart hot water
• 2 tablespoons baking soda
• 2 tablespoons Borax
• 1 tablespoon TSP

Formula B was the second-place performer in the liquid group. It was certainly the best value. It cleaned well, prevented mildew from returning to the carpet, and greatly slowed mildew infection in the moist-environment test in the lab.

We also tried treating with plain vinegar, which reportedly works on some hard surfaces, but testers found the smell a little too overpowering. A 10-percent solution of household bleach (3-percent sodium hypochlorite) was one of the best cleaners, but this has to be used with care. Bleach will bleed or degrade many fabrics, and can harm the marine environment. For complete results and more tips on keeping your boat mildew free, be sure to check out the full test report on mildew preventatives at www.practical-sailor.com. Non-subscribers, or those who'd rather save some time and support our testing program, can also dive into our complete two-volume report on mildew cleaning and prevention The Mildew-Free Boat, which will help you take care of mildew once and for all, with minimal effort.

Rigging Checklist

Rigging needs to be checked at least every year.

Inspection from Port Townsend Rigging (July 2018)

Dan notes:

• "no imminent issues, no pitting or corrosion.
• Could go for years with continued light use"

Inspection notes with additional recommendation from Lisa:

• Backstay has adjuster - similar to staysail adjuster 5/8" pin
• Radar pipe attached to back stay
• Aft lower port took turn buckle apart - wire had some waveyness when not under tension
• Fittings - Kearney swage at top - rotary at bottom
• No major pitting found on fittings
• Pins aloft sloppy in holes
• Head stay sloppy
• ME fittings aloft
• Furler warp stop not working
• Mast step appears good with drain holes and no visable corrorsion
• Running rigging old and worn. Should be replaced soon
• Back up main halyard should be replaced immediately
• Furling line needs adjustment - no wraps on drum
• Winches at mast
• Main halyard aft
• Recommend that standing rig be replaced

RK notes:

• Standing rigging is old with the exception of the forestay
• Nothing was discovered that was unsafe or glaringly wrong
• I would like to move forward with some updates in the Spring
• $3,000 standing rigging replacement
• $200 running rigging
• $100 furler warp stop
• $1000 mast work, raceway for wires, main halyard run to cockpit

Below is a checklist from Boat U.S. that has been tuned for the Peregrine.

• Are chainplates aligned with the turnbuckles, stays, and shrouds?
• Are there any signs of leaking around chainplates?
• Are terminal fittings free of cracks, bends, and rust?
• Are turnbuckles sufficiently lubricated so that they turn freely?
• Are turnbuckle barrels secured to the threads, either with rings, cotter pins, or by tightening locknuts?
• Is the standing rigging free of broken strands of wire?
• Is the mast straight, without being cocked to either side or bowed in the middle?
• Are there any signs of galvanic corrosion at the base of the mast or where dissimilar metal fittings (winches, cleats, etc.) are attached to the mast? On a painted aluminum mast, corrosion is indicated by bubbles around the fittings. On an unpainted mast, corrosion is indicated by heavy concentrations of white powder (some powder is acceptable) and pockmarks around fittings.
• Are any rivets or screws missing from sail tracks or other fittings?
• Do welds on the mast and boom appear to be rusted?
• Do spreaders bisect the shrouds at equal angles?
• Are spreader ends secured to the shroud?
• Are spreader ends protected, either with tape or with a rubber boot?
• Are all cotter pins taped?
• Do "T" terminals show any indication of stress?
• Are halyard fittings, especially the sheaves, crushed, split, or badly worn?
• Are masthead mounts for wind indicators and radio antennas tight?
• Are problems with the forestay fittings (cracks, bends, and rust) being hidden by the roller furling gear?

Rigging Specifications

(Click image to enlarge)

Mast updates

The mast was last pulled in 2007. It was sanded, painted and 4 new leather spreader boots were sewn on.

Mast Step

My '72 mast step was corroded and needed to be cut off. I had a fabricator in Port Townsend weld up an aluminum plate that tucked up into the mast base and added a high density polyethylene material that provided a inert barrier between the aluminum and the stainless plate.

Portlights and window coverings

Windows/Portlight replacement

The original windows were manufactured by Mark Plastics. I was happy to learn that Mark is still in business so gave him a call and ordered up all new over the course of several years. They are a perfect fit and Mark's customer service is excellent.

Mark Plastics: Owner Mark Heacox
369 E. Harrison Street, Unit G,
Corona Ca 92879
Ph# 951-735-7705
Fax 909-735-0701

Tools: You need the following: three sharp putty knives, a small piece of plywood or plastic and a rubber mallet.

Removal: Assuming you have already removed the inside screws and trim pieces, you should start on the outiside of the windows. Use the mallet to drive the knives down between the window trim and the side of the boat. Do this all the way around the windows, breaking the bond.

Repeat this process, but using the small piece of plywood/plastic and begin gently prying the windows away from the boat. Again go all the way around the window. Now have the "extra hand" go inside the boat and either push or use the rubber mallet to pound on the window, while you are prying on a corner. The window will begin to come away and you can literally remove it with a bit of leverage.

Installation: When re-installing the new/cleaned up frames be generous with the caulk. The surplus will squeeze out onto the masking tape around the frame which is easy to remove by stripping off the tape before the silicone gets hard. You can finish off the edge by wetting your finger and running it around the outside of the frame. The silicone won't stick to you as long as your finger is nice and wet. Don't tighten the trim screws all the way down. Allow a day or so for the silicone to harden and then tighten the rest of the way. This makes a nice gasket in case the seal isn't perfect. If you decide to spring for new windows, you can get tempered glass for about $25 more per window. Well worth the cost!

Leaks can be found this way: Make a frame that fits your companionway and wrap plastic over the hatch then put a leaf blower through the hole in the plastic and turn it on. After you cover the deck and hatches portholes with soapy water you turn it on and look for bubbles. You can even find leaks in the deck hull seam that way.

Remove 5200: I used some stuff to remove my portlights which were embedded with 5200--a really tough customer to remove. Several apiplications of Anti-Bond to soften the 5200 rendering it to a gooey consistency that carn be worked with.

Silcone: Mark, in May 2018 recommends this:

Also good is GE Silglaze II (the first time I used it I purchased it from Mark). It is an industrial silicone made for sealing plastic, especially plastic windows. Unfortunately, it is VERY difficult to find. It is available from Grainger industrial supply (http://www.grainger.com) but they will only sell to other businesses.

I found SilGlaze II at Grainger Industrial Supply. www.grainger.com.

Here's the Seattle branch: Branch: 756 4930 3rd Ave. S. Seattle, WA 98134-2308 Phone: (206) 767-4500 Fax: (206) 767-2524

Call ahead. The tubes they had at my local Grainger were out of date, but they had some "fresh" stuff for me in 1 day. It was inexpensive; I think around $6 per tube. They only sell to businesses, but any business card is all they ask for as proof of being a "business"; and they take cash.

Correx window coverings have replaced all my curtains. These white, thin 1/4" panels add privacy and light to the interior and help keep the heat in during the winter months. This was a super cheap (~$50) option to the blinds we see in the newer boats, but have somewhat the same look. I also mad a hatchboard replacement and cabilet sliders to pull 'the look' together.

Chummin'

Flying Fish!

Out for the late Fall/December salmon and crab season rip and got very lucky. We dropped the crab pots and went out trolling. No bites but my 'chum' said he had a vivid dream that we were going to pull a big one in that day.

He was right!

As we were approaching the marina, we noticed a trawler off-loading to a research vessel. We were still empty handed so we asked them if they were selling any salmon. No they said, as a research vessel they were not licensed for that, but they would give us one of their Chum Salmon.

We pulled up close enough and over it came, flying 15 feet into the cockpit. It was filleted on the dock 15 minutes later and on the grills as soon as we were home. Amazing... and did I mention we also caught a 7in Dungeness.

Montague Harbor

Mt Norman and the Pub Bus

After 15 years and many stays in this beautiful harbor, we spent two days and finally climbed Mt Norman and rode the Pub Bus into town.