Rigging Checklist

Rigging needs to be checked at least every year.

Inspection from Port Townsend Rigging (July 2018)

Dan notes:

• "no imminent issues, no pitting or corrosion.
• Could go for years with continued light use"

Inspection notes with additional recommendation from Lisa:

• Backstay has adjuster - similar to staysail adjuster 5/8" pin
• Radar pipe attached to back stay
• Aft lower port took turn buckle apart - wire had some waveyness when not under tension
• Fittings - Kearney swage at top - rotary at bottom
• No major pitting found on fittings
• Pins aloft sloppy in holes
• Head stay sloppy
• ME fittings aloft
• Furler warp stop not working
• Mast step appears good with drain holes and no visable corrorsion
• Running rigging old and worn. Should be replaced soon
• Back up main halyard should be replaced immediately
• Furling line needs adjustment - no wraps on drum
• Winches at mast
• Main halyard aft
• Recommend that standing rig be replaced

RK notes:

• Standing rigging is old with the exception of the forestay
• Nothing was discovered that was unsafe or glaringly wrong
• I would like to move forward with some updates in the Spring
• $3,000 standing rigging replacement
• $200 running rigging
• $100 furler warp stop
• $1000 mast work, raceway for wires, main halyard run to cockpit

Below is a checklist from Boat U.S. that has been tuned for the Peregrine.

• Are chainplates aligned with the turnbuckles, stays, and shrouds?
• Are there any signs of leaking around chainplates?
• Are terminal fittings free of cracks, bends, and rust?
• Are turnbuckles sufficiently lubricated so that they turn freely?
• Are turnbuckle barrels secured to the threads, either with rings, cotter pins, or by tightening locknuts?
• Is the standing rigging free of broken strands of wire?
• Is the mast straight, without being cocked to either side or bowed in the middle?
• Are there any signs of galvanic corrosion at the base of the mast or where dissimilar metal fittings (winches, cleats, etc.) are attached to the mast? On a painted aluminum mast, corrosion is indicated by bubbles around the fittings. On an unpainted mast, corrosion is indicated by heavy concentrations of white powder (some powder is acceptable) and pockmarks around fittings.
• Are any rivets or screws missing from sail tracks or other fittings?
• Do welds on the mast and boom appear to be rusted?
• Do spreaders bisect the shrouds at equal angles?
• Are spreader ends secured to the shroud?
• Are spreader ends protected, either with tape or with a rubber boot?
• Are all cotter pins taped?
• Do "T" terminals show any indication of stress?
• Are halyard fittings, especially the sheaves, crushed, split, or badly worn?
• Are masthead mounts for wind indicators and radio antennas tight?
• Are problems with the forestay fittings (cracks, bends, and rust) being hidden by the roller furling gear?

Rigging Specifications

(Click image to enlarge)

Mast updates

The mast was last pulled in 2007. It was sanded, painted and 4 new leather spreader boots were sewn on.

Mast Step

My '72 mast step was corroded and needed to be cut off. I had a fabricator in Port Townsend weld up an aluminum plate that tucked up into the mast base and added a high density polyethylene material that provided a inert barrier between the aluminum and the stainless plate.