Rigging Checklist

Rigging needs to be checked at least every year.

Inspection from Port Townsend Rigging (July 2018)

Dan notes:

• "no imminent issues, no pitting or corrosion.
• Could go for years with continued light use"

Inspection notes with additional recommendation from Lisa:

• Backstay has adjuster - similar to staysail adjuster 5/8" pin
• Radar pipe attached to back stay
• Aft lower port took turn buckle apart - wire had some waveyness when not under tension
• Fittings - Kearney swage at top - rotary at bottom
• No major pitting found on fittings
• Pins aloft sloppy in holes
• Head stay sloppy
• ME fittings aloft
• Furler warp stop not working
• Mast step appears good with drain holes and no visable corrorsion
• Running rigging old and worn. Should be replaced soon
• Back up main halyard should be replaced immediately
• Furling line needs adjustment - no wraps on drum
• Winches at mast
• Main halyard aft
• Recommend that standing rig be replaced

RK notes:

• Standing rigging is old with the exception of the forestay
• Nothing was discovered that was unsafe or glaringly wrong
• I would like to move forward with some updates in the Spring
• $3,000 standing rigging replacement
• $200 running rigging
• $100 furler warp stop
• $1000 mast work, raceway for wires, main halyard run to cockpit

Below is a checklist from Boat U.S. that has been tuned for the Peregrine.

• Are chainplates aligned with the turnbuckles, stays, and shrouds?
• Are there any signs of leaking around chainplates?
• Are terminal fittings free of cracks, bends, and rust?
• Are turnbuckles sufficiently lubricated so that they turn freely?
• Are turnbuckle barrels secured to the threads, either with rings, cotter pins, or by tightening locknuts?
• Is the standing rigging free of broken strands of wire?
• Is the mast straight, without being cocked to either side or bowed in the middle?
• Are there any signs of galvanic corrosion at the base of the mast or where dissimilar metal fittings (winches, cleats, etc.) are attached to the mast? On a painted aluminum mast, corrosion is indicated by bubbles around the fittings. On an unpainted mast, corrosion is indicated by heavy concentrations of white powder (some powder is acceptable) and pockmarks around fittings.
• Are any rivets or screws missing from sail tracks or other fittings?
• Do welds on the mast and boom appear to be rusted?
• Do spreaders bisect the shrouds at equal angles?
• Are spreader ends secured to the shroud?
• Are spreader ends protected, either with tape or with a rubber boot?
• Are all cotter pins taped?
• Do "T" terminals show any indication of stress?
• Are halyard fittings, especially the sheaves, crushed, split, or badly worn?
• Are masthead mounts for wind indicators and radio antennas tight?
• Are problems with the forestay fittings (cracks, bends, and rust) being hidden by the roller furling gear?

Rigging Specifications

(Click image to enlarge)

Mast updates

The mast was last pulled in 2007. It was sanded, painted and 4 new leather spreader boots were sewn on.

Mast Step

My '72 mast step was corroded and needed to be cut off. I had a fabricator in Port Townsend weld up an aluminum plate that tucked up into the mast base and added a high density polyethylene material that provided a inert barrier between the aluminum and the stainless plate.

Portlights and window coverings

Windows/Portlight replacement

The original windows were manufactured by Mark Plastics. I was happy to learn that Mark is still in business so gave him a call and ordered up all new over the course of several years. They are a perfect fit and Mark's customer service is excellent.

Mark Plastics: Owner Mark Heacox
369 E. Harrison Street, Unit G,
Corona Ca 92879
Ph# 951-735-7705
Fax 909-735-0701

Tools: You need the following: three sharp putty knives, a small piece of plywood or plastic and a rubber mallet.

Removal: Assuming you have already removed the inside screws and trim pieces, you should start on the outiside of the windows. Use the mallet to drive the knives down between the window trim and the side of the boat. Do this all the way around the windows, breaking the bond.

Repeat this process, but using the small piece of plywood/plastic and begin gently prying the windows away from the boat. Again go all the way around the window. Now have the "extra hand" go inside the boat and either push or use the rubber mallet to pound on the window, while you are prying on a corner. The window will begin to come away and you can literally remove it with a bit of leverage.

Installation: When re-installing the new/cleaned up frames be generous with the caulk. The surplus will squeeze out onto the masking tape around the frame which is easy to remove by stripping off the tape before the silicone gets hard. You can finish off the edge by wetting your finger and running it around the outside of the frame. The silicone won't stick to you as long as your finger is nice and wet. Don't tighten the trim screws all the way down. Allow a day or so for the silicone to harden and then tighten the rest of the way. This makes a nice gasket in case the seal isn't perfect. If you decide to spring for new windows, you can get tempered glass for about $25 more per window. Well worth the cost!

Leaks can be found this way: Make a frame that fits your companionway and wrap plastic over the hatch then put a leaf blower through the hole in the plastic and turn it on. After you cover the deck and hatches portholes with soapy water you turn it on and look for bubbles. You can even find leaks in the deck hull seam that way.

Remove 5200: I used some stuff to remove my portlights which were embedded with 5200--a really tough customer to remove. Several apiplications of Anti-Bond to soften the 5200 rendering it to a gooey consistency that carn be worked with.

Silcone: Mark, in May 2018 recommends this:

Also good is GE Silglaze II (the first time I used it I purchased it from Mark). It is an industrial silicone made for sealing plastic, especially plastic windows. Unfortunately, it is VERY difficult to find. It is available from Grainger industrial supply (http://www.grainger.com) but they will only sell to other businesses.

I found SilGlaze II at Grainger Industrial Supply. www.grainger.com.

Here's the Seattle branch: Branch: 756 4930 3rd Ave. S. Seattle, WA 98134-2308 Phone: (206) 767-4500 Fax: (206) 767-2524

Call ahead. The tubes they had at my local Grainger were out of date, but they had some "fresh" stuff for me in 1 day. It was inexpensive; I think around $6 per tube. They only sell to businesses, but any business card is all they ask for as proof of being a "business"; and they take cash.

Correx window coverings have replaced all my curtains. These white, thin 1/4" panels add privacy and light to the interior and help keep the heat in during the winter months. This was a super cheap (~$50) option to the blinds we see in the newer boats, but have somewhat the same look. I also mad a hatchboard replacement and cabilet sliders to pull 'the look' together.