Sunday, August 19, 2018

Puke Prevention Plan

The Sail Mentor Puke Prevention Plan © SailMentor.com 2015

Seasickness is one of the great fears of novice sailors. Frankly, there’s good reason for this.

Seasickness Sucks!

You never really know if you or a crew member will be susceptible. Given the right conditions, virtually anyone will succumb to mal de mer (which sounds almost classy in French, but isn’t).

The good news is that most people can manage seasickness if they take some basic steps. Unfortunately, most people don’t know how to prepare and after one brush with seasickness they fear that they can never be a sailor.

Don’t despair! I puke more easily than anyone I know and I’ve sailed through offshore storms and never missed a watch. I’ve spent years puking in various oceans and I’ve learned a lot about which preventative measures work and which don’t.

I still get sick every once in a while, but over the years I’ve worked out a basic plan for me and my guests that minimizes seasickness episodes.

Understanding Seasickness

People don’t get sick because they’re weak or scared. People get seasick because their brain gets conflicting signals from their eyes and inner ears. One says the world is moving and the other says it’s steady. This is why you feel so much worse if you go down below or stare at your feet.

There is a Mental Element

There’s no doubt that obsessing over whether you’re going to puke isn’t going to help matters. There is certainly a mental element.

However, in my experience this is not a deciding factor. I’ve gotten sick when I wasn’t expecting it at all and I didn’t get sick the only time I’ve been truly scared at sea.

The Experience is Very Individual

For some it’s long rolling motion downwind that will set them off, and others react to short choppy motion bashing windward.

You may do just fine offshore in long swells but feel ill when inshore in steep “square” waves. Or maybe just the opposite!

You Can Adapt

The really great news is that most people will feel fine after a few days at sea (though you may lose your adaptation if you’re in port for too long between passages). Many people also gradually get better over years of sailing.

Before You Go

Your Puke Prevention Plan starts before you get on the water:

Check the Forecast: If you have new crew aboard or a known puker, you may want to delay your departure if the winds are really going to be up or choose a more sheltered route.

Limit the Pre-Departure Partying: Starting hung over is not going to help!

Pack Crackers and Drinks: It’s very important to stay hydrated and fed. When I flew small airplanes, my flight bag always had crackers and a water bottle in it for when I started to feel off. Candied ginger also helps.

Hit the Pharmacy: Availability varies by country, but the three basic drugs to try out are:

  • Dramamine/Gravol: I always have chew-able Gravol in my pocket so I don’t need to think twice about taking it.
  • Stugeron: Not available in Canada or the US but many people’s favourite. Stock up on your next overseas trip.
  • Scopolamine Patch: This is the heavy hitter. You put it behind one ear and it is powerful stuff. The astronauts use it. It also gives some people heavy duty side effects, so experiment before you go. It’s magic for me.

Alternative Remedies: You may want to try bands or other options. Studies show them to be little better than placebos, but some people swear by them.

Consider Starting Drugs Early: Unfortunately, all of the drugs work better if you start the before you feel queasy.

 

On the Water

If you start to feel queasy, then take action right away! Don’t be shy, others are probably feeling the same way. If you wait too long it will be very difficult to have any effect and you’re in for a very rough day.

Start at the top and if you don’t feel better, move to the next step down:

Look at the Horizon: Get up on deck and enjoy the view. The most important thing you can do is stare at that horizon! Look for traffic or dolphins, admire the sunset, or ponder distant lands, but don’t look inside the boat. Don’t go hide down below! Stay away from fumes and closed spaces. Up on deck with you!

Eat and drink: Nobody ever believes me on this one, but simple, bland food like crackers will help settle the stomach. Candied ginger and sips of water will also help.

Start Your Drugs: If you haven’t started them preemptively, now’s the time.

Steer the Boat: When was the last time you saw the driver of a car get carsick? Don’t be shy, get in there.

This almost always works if you get on the wheel or tiller early enough.

Puke: Sooner or later it becomes inevitable. Don’t sweat it. You’ll feel better. Just be safe doing it. Hold on tight at the lee rail (away from the wind so you don’t get blow-back!) or if that isn’t safe, puke in a bucket.

Lie Down: If you’re wiped out and must like down, try to lie close to the center of the boat where there’s less motion and cover your eyes so the brain isn’t getting mixed signals.

Final Thoughts on Not Puking

Lots of sailors struggle with seasickness from time to time. It isn’t something to be feared, just something to be managed.

If you have a loved one who gets seasick, please be patient with them as they either learn to manage seasickness or slowly build up a tolerance to sailing. Otherwise, you might just need to learn to sail solo.

Monday, June 4, 2018

Cruising the Farmers Markets

Farmers Markets bring together the best of the islands artists, farmers, potters, woodworkers, bakers, fishermen, and photographers.

A delicious and fun way to enjoy the islands and the surrounding areas. The markets are held around mid-May thru September at many of the seaside communities accessible by boaters. You will enjoy connecting with the local farmers, bakers, fisherman and craftsmen.

United States

Anacortes

Just up from the Cap Sante Marina on 7th St. & 'R' Ave, this is one of the best. Having started in the 1990s it's one of the more established markets around.

  • Saturday, May thru October
  • 9a.m. to 2p.m.
  • Website

Bellingham

More than 50 booths in Depot Market Square, 1100 Railroad Avenue. A bit of a walk from the waterfront but well worth it. The Bellingham Farmers Market supports local sustainable agriculture by connecting the public with local farmers, artisans, and other producers in an economically viable marketplace.

  • Saturday, April thru December
  • 10am to 3pm
  • Website

Blaine

Support your local farmers gardeners, artists and crafts people!

  • Saturday, June thru October
  • 10am to 2pm
  • Website

Coupeville, Whidbey Island

Running for 41 years!

  • Saturday, February thru October
  • 10am to 2 pm
  • Website

Kingston, Kitsap Peninsula

Live music and dozens of vendors.

  • Saturday, May 5 - October 27
  • 9:30am - 2:30pm
  • Website

Langley, Whidbey Island

The one closure is the Choochokam Arts estival weekend in early July.

  • Friday, May thru September
  • 2pm to 6pm
  • Website

Lopez Island

Located in Fisherman's Bay, the Lopez Island Farmers Market is on Village Road, in Lopez Village.

  • Saturday, May thru September
  • 10am to 2pm
  • Website

Oak Harbor, Whidbey Island

A 10 block walk up from the Oak Harbor Marina up on Washington State Highway 20.

  • Saturday, June thru September
  • 11am to 3pm
  • Website

Orcas Island

In the Heart of Eastsound Village on North Beach Road. Over 40 booths!

  • Saturday, May thru September
  • 10am to 3pm
  • Website

Point Roberts

Locally grown and organic products.

  • Saturday, June thru August
  • 11am to 2pm
  • Website

Port Townsend

Just a short walk up the staircase to 650 Tyler St. A thriving market stemming from a network of sustainable farmers that culminates in a glorious presentation produce, crafts, arts and music.

  • Wednesday June thru September
  • 2pm to 6pm
  • Saturday April thru mid-December
  • 9am to 2pm
  • Website

San Juan Island

Visit Friday Harbor on 150 Nichols Street for beautiful produce, crafts, baked goods, meats and seafoods.

  • Saturday, April thru September
  • 10am to 1pm
  • Website

Canada

Saltspring Island

Our favorite, located in Centennial Park, Ganges Harbor.

  • Tuesday 2:00pm - 6:00pm
  • June to the end of October
  • Saturday 9:00am - 4:00pm
  • April or Easter weekend (whichever comes first) through October
  • Website

Sunday, June 3, 2018

Jumbo Shrimp!

Tasty morsels!

Nothing beats the taste of seafood fresh out of the water. In Puget Sound we're blessed with unsurpassed taste treats like Dungeness Crab and Spot Shrimp.

We've never pursued Spot Shrimp before this year, beyond the occasional run to Costco ;-). How hard can it be to pull 300 ft of leaded line up with a weighted trap? It turned out that there were a few hard lessons to learn, but it was well worth the effort, even for the short 3 day season in Admiralty Inlet and Seattle/Bremerton.

We have seen Grey Whales feeding on shrimp so we knew where to set our traps, which is not easy on a sailboat with the wind. On the first drop we ended up with line around the prop. Dang. Sailed into the shallows hoping to drag the pot with us, but the line snapped, losing the trap to the depths. Meanwhile, a pod of Killer Whales passed us by, probably laughing at our foolishness.

Sailing back, we found it extremely difficult to locate the trap, even with a MOB mark set on the GPS. The amount of line out and a tide running combined to place the bouy a long way from where you think it would be. Plus, the depth required sets you a long way off land so triangulation is of little help.

The pros all seem to have electric winch assemblies to pull their pots which is not something I've invested in... yet. So hand pulling was the only solution, which was not all that bad. We're used to this technique with crab.

LESSONS LEARNED

  • Look for 300+/- foot depths with a sandy bottom.
  • Shrimp travel in schools. Use your depth sounder to locate 'clouds' of shrimp.
  • Drifting is problematic, especially on a sailboat. Stay close. Pull pots every hour.

BAIT RECIPE
Go to the dollar store and buy and mix:

  • 1 box instant potatoes
  • 2 cans dry cat food
  • 4 cans Friskies cat food
  • 2 cans mackerel
  • 1-2 cups liquid fish fertilizer
  • Or just use cat foot soaked in vegetable oil as bait, freezing the night before.

CATCH

  • Twist their heads off and put their bodies on ice.
  • Or put them whole in ziplock bags and keep them alive on ice.
  • Don't let them sit directly on ice or in fresh water.

TO KEEP POTS FROM DRIFTING

  • In winds, big tides, or on ledges, suggest 150' of extra line
  • Add an anchor 30' above pot on a 10' line

RULES

  • Limit 80 shrimp per person
  • Each harvester must have a separate container for their catch, either in their possession or identified with their name.
  • No minimum carapace size.
  • Maximum of two shrimp pots per person and no more than four shrimp pots per boat.

Prior to harvesting, check the shellfish rule change free hotline 866-880-5431 or visit the WDFW website.

Mildew Prevention

Mildew Preventers That Really Work

Any boat moored in a slip with a bilge is destined to have moisture. Absorbing that moisture and keeping the air moving are critical control factors. The last line of defense is to keep the surfaces clean and coated with a preventative substance.

Practical Sailor has again done a great job looking at cheap alternatives to the expensive off the shelf potions. Below is a snippet from the Practical Sailor article.

The two homemade spray formulas we tested each cost about one penny per ounce. Like the other mildew preventers in our test, you use these as cleaners by simply spraying the product on, wiping any excess away, and leaving it on. Before applying to any fabric, test the spray on an inconspicuous sample spot.

Formula A

  • 1 quart hot water
  • 1 tablespoon baking soda (sodium bicarbonate)
  • 2 tablespoons washing soda (sodium carbonate)
  • 2 tablespoons trisodium phosphate (TSP)5

Much like Concrobium (which it is modeled after), our homemade Formula A removed the mildew from test carpet on board and kept it away, even though the area got wet again. It was also very effective in the moist-environment lab test.

Formula B

  • 1 quart hot water
  • 2 tablespoons baking soda
  • 2 tablespoons Borax
  • 1 tablespoon TSP

Formula B was the second-place performer in the liquid group. It was certainly the best value. It cleaned well, prevented mildew from returning to the carpet, and greatly slowed mildew infection in the moist-environment test in the lab.

We also tried treating with plain vinegar, which reportedly works on some hard surfaces, but testers found the smell a little too overpowering. A 10-percent solution of household bleach (3-percent sodium hypochlorite) was one of the best cleaners, but this has to be used with care. Bleach will bleed or degrade many fabrics, and can harm the marine environment. For complete results and more tips on keeping your boat mildew free, be sure to check out the full test report on mildew preventatives at www.practical-sailor.com. Non-subscribers, or those who'd rather save some time and support our testing program, can also dive into our complete two-volume report on mildew cleaning and prevention The Mildew-Free Boat, which will help you take care of mildew once and for all, with minimal effort.

Thursday, May 24, 2018

Rigging Checklist

Rigging needs to be checked at least every year.

Inspection from Port Townsend Rigging (July 2018)

Dan notes:

  • "no imminent issues, no pitting or corrosion.
  • Could go for years with continued light use"

Inspection notes with additional recommendation from Lisa:

  • Backstay has adjuster - similar to staysail adjuster 5/8" pin
  • Radar pipe attached to back stay
  • Aft lower port took turn buckle apart - wire had some waveyness when not under tension
  • Fittings - Kearney swage at top - rotary at bottom
  • No major pitting found on fittings
  • Pins aloft sloppy in holes
  • Head stay sloppy
  • ME fittings aloft
  • Furler warp stop not working
  • Mast step appears good with drain holes and no visable corrorsion
  • Running rigging old and worn. Should be replaced soon
  • Back up main halyard should be replaced immediately
  • Furling line needs adjustment - no wraps on drum
  • Winches at mast
  • Main halyard aft
  • Recommend that standing rig be replaced

RK notes:

  • Standing rigging is old with the exception of the forestay
  • Nothing was discovered that was unsafe or glaringly wrong
  • I would like to move forward with some updates in the Spring
  • $3,000 standing rigging replacement
  • $200 running rigging
  • $100 furler warp stop
  • $1000 mast work, raceway for wires, main halyard run to cockpit

Below is a checklist from Boat U.S. that has been tuned for the Peregrine.

  • Are chainplates aligned with the turnbuckles, stays, and shrouds?
  • Are there any signs of leaking around chainplates?
  • Are terminal fittings free of cracks, bends, and rust?
  • Are turnbuckles sufficiently lubricated so that they turn freely?
  • Are turnbuckle barrels secured to the threads, either with rings, cotter pins, or by tightening locknuts?
  • Is the standing rigging free of broken strands of wire?
  • Is the mast straight, without being cocked to either side or bowed in the middle?
  • Are there any signs of galvanic corrosion at the base of the mast or where dissimilar metal fittings (winches, cleats, etc.) are attached to the mast? On a painted aluminum mast, corrosion is indicated by bubbles around the fittings. On an unpainted mast, corrosion is indicated by heavy concentrations of white powder (some powder is acceptable) and pockmarks around fittings.
  • Are any rivets or screws missing from sail tracks or other fittings?
  • Do welds on the mast and boom appear to be rusted?
  • Do spreaders bisect the shrouds at equal angles?
  • Are spreader ends secured to the shroud?
  • Are spreader ends protected, either with tape or with a rubber boot?
  • Are all cotter pins taped?
  • Do "T" terminals show any indication of stress?
  • Are halyard fittings, especially the sheaves, crushed, split, or badly worn?
  • Are masthead mounts for wind indicators and radio antennas tight?
  • Are problems with the forestay fittings (cracks, bends, and rust) being hidden by the roller furling gear?

Rigging Specifications

(Click image to enlarge)

Mast updates

The mast was last pulled in 2007. It was sanded, painted and 4 new leather spreader boots were sewn on.

Mast Step

My '72 mast step was corroded and needed to be cut off. I had a fabricator in Port Townsend weld up an aluminum plate that tucked up into the mast base and added a high density polyethylene material that provided a inert barrier between the aluminum and the stainless plate.

Tuesday, May 22, 2018

Portlights and window coverings

Windows/Portlight replacement

The original windows were manufactured by Mark Plastics. I was happy to learn that Mark is still in business so gave him a call and ordered up all new over the course of several years. They are a perfect fit and Mark's customer service is excellent.

Mark Plastics: Owner Mark Heacox
369 E. Harrison Street, Unit G,
Corona Ca 92879
Ph# 951-735-7705
Fax 909-735-0701

Tools: You need the following: three sharp putty knives, a small piece of plywood or plastic and a rubber mallet.

Removal: Assuming you have already removed the inside screws and trim pieces, you should start on the outiside of the windows. Use the mallet to drive the knives down between the window trim and the side of the boat. Do this all the way around the windows, breaking the bond.

Repeat this process, but using the small piece of plywood/plastic and begin gently prying the windows away from the boat. Again go all the way around the window. Now have the "extra hand" go inside the boat and either push or use the rubber mallet to pound on the window, while you are prying on a corner. The window will begin to come away and you can literally remove it with a bit of leverage.

Installation: When re-installing the new/cleaned up frames be generous with the caulk. The surplus will squeeze out onto the masking tape around the frame which is easy to remove by stripping off the tape before the silicone gets hard. You can finish off the edge by wetting your finger and running it around the outside of the frame. The silicone won't stick to you as long as your finger is nice and wet. Don't tighten the trim screws all the way down. Allow a day or so for the silicone to harden and then tighten the rest of the way. This makes a nice gasket in case the seal isn't perfect. If you decide to spring for new windows, you can get tempered glass for about $25 more per window. Well worth the cost!

Leaks can be found this way: Make a frame that fits your companionway and wrap plastic over the hatch then put a leaf blower through the hole in the plastic and turn it on. After you cover the deck and hatches portholes with soapy water you turn it on and look for bubbles. You can even find leaks in the deck hull seam that way.

Remove 5200: I used some stuff to remove my portlights which were embedded with 5200--a really tough customer to remove. Several apiplications of Anti-Bond to soften the 5200 rendering it to a gooey consistency that carn be worked with.

Silcone: Mark, in May 2018 recommends this:

Also good is GE Silglaze II (the first time I used it I purchased it from Mark). It is an industrial silicone made for sealing plastic, especially plastic windows. Unfortunately, it is VERY difficult to find. It is available from Grainger industrial supply (http://www.grainger.com) but they will only sell to other businesses.

I found SilGlaze II at Grainger Industrial Supply. www.grainger.com.

Here's the Seattle branch: Branch: 756 4930 3rd Ave. S. Seattle, WA 98134-2308 Phone: (206) 767-4500 Fax: (206) 767-2524

Call ahead. The tubes they had at my local Grainger were out of date, but they had some "fresh" stuff for me in 1 day. It was inexpensive; I think around $6 per tube. They only sell to businesses, but any business card is all they ask for as proof of being a "business"; and they take cash.

Correx window coverings have replaced all my curtains. These white, thin 1/4" panels add privacy and light to the interior and help keep the heat in during the winter months. This was a super cheap (~$50) option to the blinds we see in the newer boats, but have somewhat the same look. I also mad a hatchboard replacement and cabilet sliders to pull 'the look' together.