Towering 6,000 ft peaks and countless waterfalls make this truly an experiance of a lifetime.
We went at the end of July. Rainfall had been limited but Chatterbox Falls was still spectacular. One major upside was the water in the inlet was a very comfortable 72 degrees, perfect for swimming.
GETTING THERE
Boaters coming from the south will travel the Strait of Georgia past the Thormanby Islands and into Malaspina Strait, which lies between Texada Island and the rugged mainland coast. Smuggler's Cove, Secret Cove, Pender Harbour and Egmont make good stopping points along the way with supplies and fuel available at the latter three. Just past Pender Harbour, Agamemnon Channel leads you from the Strait of Georgia into the 46 mile length of Jervis Inlet with Nelson and Hardy Islands to port.
Cruising from Desolation Sound or from the north, you will enter Malaspina Strait after passing Powell River and Westview and proceed south to the mouth of Jervis Inlet at Scotch Fir Point, passing the Saltery Bay Ferry terminal, leaving Hardy and Nelson Islands to starboard.
THROUGH THE INLET
From Egmont, Prince of Wales Reach, Princess Royal Reach, and Queen's Reach take you almost to the head of Jervis Inlet. Princess Louisa Inlet, named after Queen Victoria's mother, is entered through Malibu Rapids about half way up the east side of Queen's Reach. Malibu Rapids should be entered only at or near slack water because of strong currents and overfalls.
Consult the Canadian Tide and Current Tables, vol. 5, for the times of slack. Malibu Rapids are listed in the tables as a secondary current station based on the tides at Point Atkinson. We used Ports and Passages which did not list Malibu Rapids, but the correction below is still relatively accurate. Add 35 minutes to the time of low water at Point Atkinson and add 25 minutes to the high water. Remember, these times may vary due to the amount of water passing through the rapids! Make sure that the line of overfalls have disappeared before entering the rapids. I recommend waiting for no more than a 1 knot current if you are in a deep keel sailboat. Powerboats will have no issues even at 3 knots of current.
It’s difficult when entering the rapids northbound to see the overfalls and know when it's slack and safe to enter. Southbound the rapids are easily visible. Luckily, boats transiting the rapids are very helpful and call in a securite on channel 16 with the speed of the current, and their entrance and exits .
We entered on a full moon at low tide with over 13 feet of water moving. Yikes! Following the correction tables above we still had a three knot ebb current to struggle against. With 9 boats ahead and 3 stacked behind we were hesitant to pull ourselves out of the lineup. Swirling rapids, shallow water, and a skinny 50’ wide clearance created a bit of a challenge to maintain control. In hindsight I should have waited for slack water. It would have been ugly had I lost control.
Leaving three days later, the Pt. Atkinson corrections were mostly accurate. We hit the rapids at high tide 15 minutes before slack water and barely had a one knot current with us. Largely due to 4 feet of water move in. Much less stress! More control, and a wider channel with a minimum depth of 34’. Keep the light to starboard as you exit.
According to the Sailing Directions, entry should be made "... in mid-channel between the light and Malibu Islet. The channel east of Malibu Islet is not recommended." Vessels are well advised to broadcast their intentions when entering and leaving on VHF Channel 16 as visibility is limited around the point on which the Young Life Camp sits.
Welcome to Princess Louisa Inlet! Once into the Inlet, please reduce speed to 4 knots to reduce wash and protect this beautiful area.
I was concerned that this being peak season, finding a perfect anchorage might be a challenge. Not a problem! There were lots of places to drop your anchor and stern tie. Most folks only stay a day or two so the turnaround can open up options if you just wait for the next tidal exchange.
Four Mooring Buoys are available behind MacDonald Island to port approximately halfway up the Inlet. Watch for a drying rock off the South end of the Island. We didn't stop but see an extensive network of trails for hiking/biking here. We opted to hike to the legendary trappers cabin, a brisk 2,000 ft climb and 3.36 mile (one way) from the head of the dock. It did not dissappoint!
Anchorage is also available at the head of the inlet at the foot of Chatterbox Falls and the entire west of Chatterbox. Set your anchor in close to the falls in 10 feet (3 m.) and let the river current keep you in position.
We found a small creek that provided a perfect, naturally noise cancelling feature so we never heard a sound from anyone. Powerboats outnumber sailboats 20:1 so there's a chance a generator might interupt your evening.
The Society has placed mooring eyes at various locations along the rock walls from MacDonald Island to either side of the falls for stern ties to assist in anchoring at other locations in the Inlet but does not warrant the locations as being good anchorage. The holding ground is largely rock and the water deep.
The Society and BC Parks maintain the floats at the falls. Water is available on the floats but boiling it is recommended to make it potable. There is no electricity. Please use the "privies" ashore. There are campsites at the falls and on the mainland behind MacDonald Island - and a very helpful and knowledgeable Park Ranger (she's been there 32 years!) from May to September.
POTENTIAL ANCHORAGES: APPROACHING FROM THE SOUTH
Hotham Sound: Pass Friel Falls to the head of the Sound near Baker Bay. Anchor close to shore and in the nook to the southeast.
Harmony Islands: Lovely quiet coves but bottom is rock and anchoring is deep and very difficult. There are supposedly six stern ties. We found only 3.
Deserted Bay: In Princess Royal Reach. This is the only recommended anchorage beyond Hotham Sound. Anchor in the Southeast corner. Parts of the shelf are shallow at low tide. The foreshore is Indian Reservation, respect the rights of ownership.
POTENTIAL ANCHORAGES: APPROACHING FROM THE NORTH
Nelson Island - Ballet Bay: Enter from Malaspina Strait through Blind Bay to the southwest of Clio Island. Watch for uncharted rocks. There is good anchorage in 30-40 feet (10-12 m.) On a mud bottom in the outer portion of the bay. The inner bay has some mud and, nearer shore, rock bottom.
Hardy Island - Fox Island: Enter from Malaspina Strait through Blind Bay and into the bay opposite this island. Stern ties ashore are recommended as the bottom is largely rock and swinging room is limited.
Quarry Bay: Enter from Malaspina Strait. The cove south of the old granite quarry in the eastern end of the bay and in the western arm. Stern ties ashore are recommended. Watch for drying rocks and reefs.
Thunder Bay, Maude Bay: On the north side of Jervis Inlet adjacent to each other. Anchor near the sand beach in behind the point. There is an unmarked rock on the western shore when entering.
Saltery Bay: Public Floats adjacent to the ferry terminal.
OUR ROUTE
- 7/26 Kingston -2215.7 (engine hours)
- 7/27 Port Townsend - 2219.9 - Fuel - 25 miles
- 7/28 Blind Bay - 2225.6 - 36 miles
- 7/29 Bedwell Hrbr - 2229.5 - Fuel - 20 miles
- 7/30 Silva Bay -2235.2 - 40 miles
- 7/31 (1) Pender Hrbr - 2241.0 - Fuel - 40 miles
- 7/31 (2) Harmony Islands - 2244.3 - 19 miles
- 8/1 Princess Louisa - 2250.9 - 40 miles
- 8/2 Princess Louisa
- 8/3 Princess Louisa
- 8/4 Pender Harbor - 2258.3 - Fuel - 52 miles
- 8/5 Clam Bay - 2265.8 - 53 miles
- 8/6 Genoa Bay - 2269.0 - 20
- 8/7 Roche Harbor - 2273.2 - Fuel - 23 miles
- 8/8 Watmough - 2277.0 - 20 miles
- 8/9 Kingston - 2285.0 - 48 miles
For more information on making the journey to Princess Louisa, read the excellent blog posts by Steve Mitchell at SeaBits.com:
Part 1,
Part 2,
Part 3.
