Tuesday, July 18, 2023

Crossing the Strait of Juan de Fuca

Put away the tide tables. You definitely want the current tables for this crossing.

I like to look at this 20 mile crossing in three legs. Port Townsend to Point Partridge, Point Partridge to Smith Island, and Smith Island to Lopez Island.

I use the Smith Island and Point Partridge current tables. Catch the outgoing tide, and time your arrival with the slack tide at Point Partridge bouy located 37 miles west of Whidbey Island. You can then catch the incoming flood tide to carry you north to the East side of lopez and up Rosario Strait. If you hit this right it's like riding a conveyor belt. But do be ready for anything; strong winds, fog, commercial traffic and currents will all conspire to make your crossing interesting. There's also a good chance of spotting Minke or Killer whales and Dahl porpoises.

NORTHBOUND
Pull out Port Townsend and make your way around Point Hudson. Keep your distance from Point Wilson and the dreaded Point Wilson rip! Then point NW to the Point Partridge Bank and hopefully slack currents. If you are early or late, this area developes a confused chop that can be nose on. This area can also be congested with barges, freighter traffic and pleasure boats.

Summer afternoon winds often see strong westerlies, mostly in the small craft advisory range (25-38 mph). Gale warnings are also common(39-54 mph). Best to head out early on a 5-15 mph forecast if you’d like to keep your passengers happy. It's typically a 4hr adventure.

Be aware that rough water can occur at any time in the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Make sure your hatches, anchor, dinghy, paddleboard and everything else is strapped down tight on deck.

SOUTHBOUND
Leaving Lopez Island, I like to get well past Smith Island on the ebb. if you can hit the Point Partridge bouy at slack, you’ll have excellent timing. The first thing you look out for when leaving Lopez is a wall of water about a mile south. This is Lawson's Reef, barely 30ft deep at ther bouy. I've seen a 3 mile long standing wave here on a minus 2ft tide. The current pours over a shelf, which can cause a wave 6 feet tall. You would need to run all the way east to Whidbey to avoid it. Trying to avoid it is no better as it can also extend west to Davidson Rock.

Once you make it past Lawson's Reef, point your bow to the east end of Smith Island. The Smith Island sand bar almost completely disappears at high tide. The current will try to take you into the shallows so you could be crabbing sideways without even knowing it. There is a 2 mile sand spit running east of Smith Island. Don’t mistake the tower for the east end. The tower simply marks the middle of the sandbar. Look for the the concrete bunker wreckage and stay at least a mile off the point.

Once you pass Smith island, set your sights on the Partridge Bank bouys. There can be quite a bit of kelp here in 60ft of water. This is also a convergence of shipping lanes so watch ahead and behind yo. Once between these green can bouys, head south to Pt Wilson being careful to avoid the Point Wilson rip. and Port Townsend.

NORTHBOUND
Basically the opposite of southbound. Leaving Port Townsend, I like to try to hit slack water around Point Partridge, then north to the east end of Smith Island, and finally up thru Rosario Strait.

OTHER OPTIONS
If the weather and currents are not to your liking, you have a number of considerations:

  • You can go the inside channel up Saratoga Passage and thru Deception Pass or
  • up to Anacortes thru the Swinomish Slough and past La Conner. Both take a lot longer but have great options for multiple stops, depending on crew choices and schedules
  • Cattle Pass between San Juan and Lopez islands is a good option. I tend to stay away from the populated areas like Friday Harbor which is why I like the route up the east of Lopez and Rosario Strait.
  • Same for heading to Victoria. That is a long run so likely you'll be fighting current and wind at some point.